Joe Sixpack: Among the new stops: Brauhaus Schmitz on South St.

July 10, 2009

AREA GERMAN beer fans have been chomping at the bit ever since Ludwig's Garten closed last year. Where to wash down an authentic schnitzel with a glass of fresh Bavarian lager?

Prost! Brauhaus Schmitz (718 South St.) is finally open, and its owners, Kelly Schmitz-Hager and her husband, Doug Hager, are doing it right.

The restaurant is beautifully appointed, with fine oak details, antique apothecary boxes left from a previous occupant and a giant plaque of the Reinheitsgebot, the 1516 German beer purity law.

I've had only a couple of dishes so far, including a very filling smoked trout salad.

They're even serving authentic Bavarian-style pretzels that could give Philly's best vendor carts a run for the money.

The beer? Eighty bottles plus 20 taps. In most cases, the drafts are among the finest of their respective German styles. Consider:

Hefeweizen: Ayinger Brau Weisse.

Rauchbier: Aecht Schlenkerla Helles.

Weizenbock: Schneider Aventinus.

Altbier: Uerige Sticke.

German pils: Jever.

Even better: The waitresses wear dirndls, which, depending on your interests, is either a nice touch of authenticity or just plain easy on the eyes. Either way, it's tip bait.


 

Here's another new joint to put on your radar: Varga Bar (941 Spruce St., Washington Square West).

The place blew open the doors in May with a primo beer list, and the 20 taps have been turning over quickly. This week the stars include: Rogue Somer Orange Honey Ale, Ithaca Flower Power, Founders Backwoods Bastard and a cask of oak-aged Yards ESA.

And check out the kitchen's beer cuisine, including Not My Mom's Spam - ham brined with Dogfish Head Aprihop. The fries on the side are served in an empty Spam tin.


 

On the horizon: Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant's (124 E. Kings Highway, Maple Shade) first location in Jersey should be opening shortly. Brewer Chris LaPierre has already fired up the kettles.

Further down the road: Resurrection (Grays Ferry Avenue and Catharine Street, Grays Ferry) will open at the site of the recently shuttered Yello Bar. It's the third beer-centric tavern from Brendan "Spanky" Hartranft and Leigh Maida, who also run Memphis Taproom in Port Richmond and Local 44 in West Philly.


 

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