I had anxiety, though, knowing that the interior had been gutted. And when so many have gone under, can any fish house in today's economy keep the quality high?
Let's begin with the essentials - the oysters. Happily, there is a "buck-a-shuck" oyster special ($1 each) weekdays from 5-7 p.m. They pick the oyster variety from what's available in the daily offerings. You sit at the bar and slurp.
If you really want to treat yourself, get some advice from the waiters and sample a variety from the menu.
My tasters and I enjoyed Royal Miyagi ($2.50) from Canada that had a very mild flavor with a slight cucumber finish. Another favorite was the Island Creek ($2.50) from Massachusetts with a sweet taste and hint of brine. Not for the faint of heart, Connecticut's Mystic ($2.10) with a very strong aftertaste.
If raw doesn't do it for you, there is a variety of roasted oysters ($12 for 4 or $23 for 8) or clams casino ($9 for 4 or $17 for 8). Oyster choices range from the traditional Rockefeller to an American regional-inspired corn, squash and barbecue sauce.
I wanted to order a sampler of four different kinds and was told that there were a lot of like-minded souls, but the kitchen found it too daunting.
The kitchen needs to figure this out. On one solo visit, I tried the Rockefeller . . . delicious, but four is too much of the same.
One of the heartening signs is the attention to the quality of the seafood and fish. The salmon is wild, not farm-raised. So, it won't be available regularly, but whatever replaces it on the menu will generally be coming from day boats and have the same attention to freshness and quality.
In addition to the raw bar, there's a nice selection of small plates perfect for sharing.
We couldn't resist adding on an order of Sauteed Mussels ($13).
