The Oyster House is back and serving mollusks on a half shell

The wine list is a huge improvement from the former. The quality and selection has improved, but the mark-up is very reasonable. And the list includes classics such as the 2007 Jovly Chenin Blanc ($7 glass, $30 bottle) to a more esoteric 2006 Tomaresca Neprica ($33).

The bar list sports some nice domestics on draft, such as Yards' Brawler ($5) and Sly Fox Brewing Company's O'Reilly's Stout ($5). Belgium lovers will find the Ommegang Abbey Ale 25-ounce bottle ($12).

My original trepidation has been allayed by several good meals with respectable service.

I'm getting used to the renovation, although I'd prefer the character of local Mercer Tile over the stark-white subway tile.

It seems we went from grandma's dark front room to ultra-sleek New York modernity.

The openness and showcase of family collection of oyster plates are some nice features, though.

Also, the use of reclaimed materials such as the bar's marble, which was once part of Independence Mall, and the flooring, fashioned from timber from the Academy of Music, adds some history as well as warmth.

Welcome back, Oyster House. *