Joe Sixpack: Revisiting 3 beer classics: Can they still hold up their heads?

July 17, 2009

WHEN TAP lineups at your local pub change every day, challenging taste buds and pushing flavors to the extreme, it's not hard to feel less than excited by the old standbys.

Or worse. It's an unfortunate truth, after all, that familiarity breeds contempt.

So the other day, I sat down with three stalwarts of the craft-beer renaissance with a clean palate and a fresh eye.

Are they as outstanding as they were a generation ago when they were trendsetters? Or have they lost a step as competitors have improved?

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All three are top-sellers in the craft-beer market, and they're benchmarks in their respective styles. Yet - perhaps in a sign of their diminished standing among experts - it's been a decade since any won a medal at the Great American Beer Festival.

But forget the experts. Try this exercise yourself. You'll be surprised by either how much your palate has changed or by how damningly easy it is to take excellence for granted.

 

Anchor Steam

 

Introduced: 1896.

Last Great American Beer Festival medal: 1992 (bronze).

Claim to fame: When washing-machine heir Fritz Maytag revived the brand in the late '60s, it would set in motion the entire microbrew craze, proving to the world that America could actually brew something other than a pallid yellow lager. By 1977, it would be described as "the Rolls-Royce" of U.S. beer.

Gratuitous diss: It's a training beer for novices.

Tasting notes: The aroma is delicate and enticing. The body is dry, smooth and thoroughly refreshing. First you taste its malt, delicately sweet and almost buttery. Then a tight, almost subtle, bite of hops cleanses the palate and urges you to follow with another quaff. Anchor Steam is a marvel of perfect balance.

My take: Anchor Steam is a wonderful easy-sipper, maybe the ideal ballpark beer. But in a world of hop monsters, malt bombs and high-octane mind-numbers, it's a "safe" beer that may never again get the credit it deserves.

 

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale

 

Introduced: 1980.

Last GABF medal: 1995 (gold).

Claim to fame: Hardly anybody in America drank ale when Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi started scavenging equipment for their tiny brewery in Chico, Calif. Using whole hops (not pellets or extracts), they designed the prototypical West Coast ale, a style that would become so popular even Anheuser-Busch would copy it eventually.

Gratuitous diss: Cascades hops are so 1999.

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