Juicy burger is icing on cake

A spiffy new food stand is the latest sign of rejuvenation in once-seedy Franklin Square.

July 19, 2009|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist
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  • SquareBurger, a joint venture of Stephen Starr and Historic Philadelphia Inc., offers more than burgers. Also available are fries, a salad, and hot dogs.
  • SquareBurger, a joint venture of Stephen Starr and Historic Philadelphia Inc., offers more than burgers. Also available are fries, a salad, and hot dogs.
  • Fire Commissioner Lloyd Ayers and Police Commissioner Charles Ramsey sampled the SquareBurger offerings. (Tony Fitts)
  • Two firefighters circle the Franklin Square fountain looking for a place to sit. Behind them is Stephen Starr's burger shack in the renovated square. In a preview of the stand, Starr served 300 fire department and police employees from across the street at the Philadelphia Police Administration Building. Officers sampled the $4.75 burger, $2 fries and $2 drinks at tables surrounding the fountain. (Tony Fitts)
  • The Franklin Square burger stand is a joint venture of Starr, whose daughter has loved playing in the park, and Historic Philadelphia Inc., the nonprofit that has revived the square and maintains it with 24-hour security and no-sleeping-on-benches rules. (Tony Fitts)

Between the foot of the Ben Franklin Bridge and the Roundhouse, which is to say police headquarters, is a leafy, 7 1/2-acre patch of green that until three or four years ago was the ugly duckling of William Penn's original five squares (Rittenhouse the most prominent and elegant among them).

Its name is Franklin Square, and if you happen to have lived in Old City in the early 1980s and played softball there on Monday nights, your memory is of chasing after balls in the dry gulch of a nonworking fountain, dodging broken beer bottles, and hoping that your pop foul didn't crack the skull of a homeless guy or drug addict zonked out on one of the benches.

It was a disgrace and a defeat, severed from the city by approaches to the bridge and formidably widened stretches of Sixth and Race Streets; Exhibit A for how neglect feeds on scraps of the city that have slipped out of sight.

So to see it today - the 1838-vintage fountain spraying over a sea-blue pool, toddlers swinging, petunias swaying, a carousel whirling, a putt-putt golf course featuring replicas of the Liberty Bell and the Museum of Art - is to be rendered, well, almost breathless.

History has not just been reversed here, but sent so thoroughly packing that it is hard to imagine, if you hadn't witnessed it with your own eyes, how low Franklin Square had sunk.

One day last week, a bit of icing was being applied to the cake. A jaunty little stand called SquareBurger opened, handing out free (for the day) burgers to long lines of police officers and firefighters whose fallen brethren are memorialized by a beacon in a corner of the square.

It made for a bit of a Norman Rockwell visual - highway patrolmen in tall, black boots huddled at picnic tables, bent over their juicy, hand-formed burgers (and salami-wrapped hot dogs) as T-shirted denizens of local day-care centers frolicked around them.

The stand, clad invitingly in creamy clapboard, is determinedly noninstitutional and unapologetically channels a similar and wildy popular joint called the Shake Shack in Manhattan's (also refurbished) Madison Square Park, a project of uber-restaurateur Danny Meyer, who in turn modeled itafter a retro roadside burger stand.

The Franklin Square stand is a joint venture, the first half of which is Philadelphia's prolific Stephen Starr, whose daughter has loved playing in the park, but whose restaurant group has tended toward trendier venues including Continental and the steak house Butcher & Singer.

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