The servers, though their ranks are noticeably thinner (20 percent) than at my early visit, were all well-informed and pleasant pros, capable of reciting the subtleties of each oyster, or giving able counsel on the wine list. The cellar isn't quite as huge as some of the other new chop-house contenders, but still has plenty of interesting choices, from the usual steak-house cabs to good zins from Seghesio and a valpolicella from Allegrini ($54) that was a highlight of the lower price tier.
Union Trust
Scaling back the early pretension and prices, it excels at the beefy basics. But some details need closer attention.
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All in all, though far from perfect (and well shy of its once grandiose visions of the ultimate Philly steak house), three recent meals here were satisfying enough on the basis of raw bar and beef alone.
And yet, I had to wonder at that final dinner why the see-through cellar near the front was almost empty, the wines-by-the-glass case ominously left understocked. This stunning room - once packed to the balcony with the glitz of opening night, enough to incite its competitors to gnash their catty teeth - was barely half full. And all of us, from diners to waiters and Ed Doherty himself, wore the shine of perspiration from the stifling heat as we waited for a little AC breeze - and a breath of fresh life - to kick in.
Contact restaurant critic Craig LaBan at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.
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