In the Market, mind your Bebe's and 'cues

Down in the Italian Market, fighting words generally concern "gravy wars" and the finer points of tomato sauce.

With Ninth Street newcomer Bebe's Barbecue in the fray, we now have another rivalry to discuss.

Owner Mark Coates makes no bones about it, his 'cue is North Carolina Piedmont style. If you insist, you can get a side of eastern-style sauce, but be prepared for a lengthy discussion of the merits of Lexington sauce and the authenticity of cider vinegar versus white.

Or as his business and kitchen partner, Tamara Van Winkle, succinctly put it, "He can go on."

The point of contention between the two sauces is that eastern style is generally a blend of vinegar, red pepper or hot sauce, and salt. Lexington smooths things out with the addition of tomato, and Coates' role model is the famed Stamey's, still in operation in Greensboro, N.C.

But as Coates points out, whether your allegiance is to eastern style or the western Piedmont, it all starts out with great smoked, pulled pork.

Coates was born in North Carolina and has deep paternal roots there, so the sauce and the smoke run through his veins. Bebe is named after his grandmother, who taught him how to cook.

Coates' one concession was to get an electric wood smoker instead of an open barbecue pit. Yeah, I can imagine that conversation with the Philadelphia Department of Licenses and Inspections.

The one advantage is that the electric smoker produces a consistent product even after the requisite 14 to 15 hours of cooking.

That long, slow cooking, and the fact that he starts with a bone-in picnic shoulder, is what produces tender, sweet meat.

Bebe's Pulled Pork Sandwich ($6) is a sight to behold. Don't be offended that it is served on a plain old supermarket hamburger bun. That's as it should be, because the bread is supposed to absorb the sauce.

They do toast the inside so that everything stays somewhat together, but if you are going more than a few blocks, ask to have your meat and bread packed separately. You want some absorption, but not to the point of sog.

Fortunately, they send you on the way with extra sauce. It's very addictive. You may even want to pour some on your cereal in the morning.

The Brisket Sandwich ($8) is a wonderful balance of smoke and meat. When it comes out of the smoker, there is an amazing layer of what is called "bark" in the barbecue trade. It's a layer of outer fat and meat that is caramelized and infused with the flavor of the smoke and stands alone. No sauce here.