Drink

Of all the southern French grapes now spreading their Rhône gusto throughout the vineyards of the New World, syrah has no doubt garnered the star's share of attention - especially in its Aussie persona as shiraz, but also with increasing success in the Pacific Northwest.

In its original and most noble state, though, syrah is just one of many grapes that go into the blend of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. And among them, grenache is at least as important as syrah. As winemaker Marc Perrin of Château de Beaucastel once told me, grenache is the bright fruit "flesh" to the earthy dark juice and tannin "bones" of syrah (as well as mourvèdre).

Here are two stellar bottles that suggest American winemakers are finally getting their grenache grooves on. Zaca Mesa's 2006 Z Cuvée is a widely available bottle that highlights the complexity a good blend can offer - grenache's bright raspberry rounded by the dark berries of mourvèdre and syrah, with an earthy touch of dried herbs from cinsault. Even more impressive, though, was the 2007 "Rock and a Hard Place" Central Coast grenache from Barrel 27, expected on store shelves by early September. This is a powerhouse brew that can wait a year in the bottle to mellow, but a slice of grilled lamb would benefit from this wine anytime, its inky red juice like a burst of black raspberry backed with white pepper spice, licorice, and tobacco.

Zaca Mesa's 2006 Z Cuvée (code: 012602), $17.99, in Pennsylvania. Barrel 27's 2007 "Rock and a Hard Place" grenache (code: 12675), $19.99, expected on Pa. shelves by early September.- Craig LaBan