DINING REVIEWCRAIG LaBAN

Chunks of veal marrow, garlicky breadcrumbs, and woodsy chanterelles, left, are primally good, served in a long bone cut in half.
Chunks of veal marrow, garlicky breadcrumbs, and woodsy chanterelles, left, are primally good, served in a long bone cut in half.
Posted: August 30, 2009

The Bell Key

Superior: Rare; sets fine-dining standards.

Excellent: Excels in every category of the dining experience.

Very Good: Interesting, with above-average food.

Hit-or-miss.

No bells: Poor.

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