I also wish there had been a more obvious presence of foie gras inside the roulade of stuffed pig's foot. It was otherwise the ultimate country dish - slow-stewed, deboned, and rolled into a crisped tube of jellied pig flesh over wonderful lentils. Not for everyone, even if the liver hadn't been rendered invisible.
For a more straightforward and satisfying take, though, Bibou's seared foie gras over spiced pumpkin corn bread and honeyed melon was one of the best preparations I've had.
Though Bibou's tight quarters and bustling din are a world away from the posh luxury of Le Bec-Fin, the chef hasn't lost his magic touch for the multicourse tasting. A four-course prix-fixe that is Sunday's only option is well worth the $45. The seven-course $70 tasting available during the week, however, is one of the city's most intriguing gastro-splurges - especially when taken at the two-seat rear bar with a close-up view of the kitchen.
Our meal soared from an ethereally light but vivid chilled asparagus soup to a velvety-tender slice of poached veal tongue with sauce gribiche (a decadent throwback mayo with capers, cornichons, minced hard-cooked egg, and tarragon.) There were wonderfully crisped scallops with lime emulsion, sea beans and shaved cucumber noodles, another bowl of Madeira-sauced chanterelles (which I gratefully devoured), seared foie gras, and an intensely beefy hanger steak in a light green peppercorn sauce alongside snappy plumes of black trumpet mushrooms that glistened with a butter shine.
If there is one slight downside to this two-cook operation, it's most obvious in the modest finale. And yet, while there is no cheese trolley or multitiered pastry cart to lavish diners with one final decadence, the homey array of well-cooked fruit crumbles, fig-and-goat-cheese tarts, and cherry clafouti had the desired effect.
An elegant couple beside us rose from their table, personally thanked Charlotte for the splendid meal, and then put their names down for the same table the following Friday night - "our usual," said the gent.
I could almost feel the building smile.
Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviews Firecreek in Downingtown. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.
