Firecreek

The big Delmonico was plenty tender. But it was slathered in such a thick mop of sweet onion jam that the curving contours and zestiness of the rib eye were obscured. Maybe that was a good thing. That same cut of choice-grade beef, slow roasted into a garlic-rubbed prime rib, was unimpressive, our grayish slice of overcooked meat leaving a metallic and livery aftertaste as it disintegrated on the tongue.

The $32 rack of lamb was also far overcooked past the requested medium rare, but this dish really went off the tracks when the gamy meat was paired with sweet grilled peaches, a match typically better made with pork.

Other savory dishes using fruit were closer to success. The tacos topped with crisped duck confit, barbecue sauce, and peach salsa would have been splendid if the tortilla rounds themselves hadn't been so puny. We could have sipped the addictive orange, fennel, and Brooklyn ale broth from the mussel bowl through a straw - but the flabbiness of those little mollusks left much to be desired (they should be plump and firm). And while Coca-Cola isn't a fruit, it definitely left its own sweet and tangy echo in Firecreek's barbecue sauce. Now if only the kitchen put some real smoke on its ribs, we'd be talkin'.

There are so many solid ideas here that have been left at loose ends, but none of those issues are impossible to fix with a little more focus. These folks even ruined Morning Star's fine coffee (from West Chester) by brewing it airline-style to the shade of weak tea.

So skip the caffeine and stick with the bar. There's a small-but-workable selection of craft brews (Victory, Stoudt's, and Brooklyn, among others), and a 70-label wine list from the Americas that offers some intriguing New World Rhones under $50 (Alban viognier; Zaca Mesa roussanne; Cline "Ancient Vines" mourvedre) and worthy bottles from Oregon (Elk Cove pinot blanc) and Argentina (El Felino malbec).

The relatively most consistent aspect to the menu here was Angela Masciantonio's desserts. Granted, my guest nearly injured himself trying to slice through the deeply frozen chocolate crust of the peanut butter ice cream bar - but it was tasty once it defrosted. The chocolate-hazelnut layer cake was moist and decadent. The bananas Foster crème brûlée wasn't bad at all.

But the all-around favorite was a bread pudding made from cider doughnuts supplied by nearby Highland Orchards - one of my favorite spots for a fall picking jaunt. Moist and full of apples, with a cinnamon anglaise, it offered a clever and satisfying twist on a local flavor.

If only Firecreek had more ably done the same for the steak-house phenomenon already saturating the region, that drive to Downingtown would be worthwhile.

Next Sunday, restaurant critic Craig LaBan previews some anticipated highlights of the fall dining season. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.