Bun there, done that: Restaurants reimagine the hot dog

September 10, 2009|By BETH D'ADDONO, For the Daily News
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  • Varga's Evan Turney prepares the $9 hot dog.
  • Varga's Evan Turney prepares the $9 hot dog.
  • The Kobe Beef Chili hot dog.

HOT DOGS aren't just for baseball games and barbecues anymore. Check the menus at a handful of gastro pubs or even high-end restaurants around town, and you'll see a haute dog gussied up with all manner of homemade fixings.

Brought to America by German immigrants in the late 1800s - the word frankfurter comes from Frankfurt, Germany - the humble wiener's original pedigree was more show dog than mutt.

Traditionally, butchers ground leftover cuts of meat, usually pork shoulder, added spices and then emulsified the mixture, making a kind of mousse. This was then stuffed into natural casings and ready for steaming, boiling, grilling or frying.

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It wasn't until the dog was mass-produced commercially that it lost its blue-ribbon rep, thanks to the addition of additives, nitrates, tons of sodium, and, in some cases, less-than-mainstream cuts of meat. Cheap, commercially produced dogs are suspect on many levels, from the way the animals that provide the meat are raised to the number of contaminants allowed in the manufacturing process and the high level of fat and sodium in the finished product.

Now, we're not saying that gourmet hot dogs are health food, but the snap of a pure, 100 percent beef or pork hot dog is truly a thing of beauty.

Marcus Rieker knows a thing or two about quality dogs. The second-generation butcher took over Rieker's Prime Meats in Fox Chase from his father, Walter, in 2004. He makes three kinds of wieners - a beef, pork and veal mix, a veal dog and a turkey dog.

"My father tells the story about starting his business and being asked by a supplier how much egg whites, powdered milk and soybean powder he'd be ordering for his hot dogs. When he was told none, the guy said he'd [Rieker] be out of business in a year."

Fillers, preservatives and salt plump up dogs by retaining water and adding weight. "We don't use any of that, which is why our dogs have a shorter shelf life of 5 to 7 days in the refrigerator," Rieker said. He sells all his dogs for $4.99 a pound, or you can taste one at Brauhaus Schmitz, the German beer hall on South Street.

 

Dog fight

 

Beef vs. pork is always a lively debate when it comes to which makes the best hot dog.

"I grew up on kosher dogs because I'm Jewish," said Matt Prensky, chef/owner of Supper Restaurant and Global Dish Catering. "But I'm a huge fan of pork. It's such flavorful meat."

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