Any translation of a traditional style is going to have some hits and misses.
Let's start with the positive. The Crispy Fried Rock Shrimp ($12) was hands down the favorite dish of the table. O'Halloran points out that this is a takeoff on the classic dish, Shrimp with Walnuts. He uses the rock shrimp to dress up the dish.
He's right . . . the rock shrimp deliver here, as does the wasabi sauce. And the sticky rice was a nice contrast texturally.
Steamed Butter Lettuces ($5) was another favorite. The greens are lightly steamed and seasoned with an oyster sauce and topped with crispy slivers of fried shallots. Think of it as an Asian version of green bean casserole. Delicious.
I also enjoyed the Pork Belly Buns ($9) and this is an example of the more rustic approach. O'Halloran purposely stayed away from French technique here and offered a slightly thicker, chewier texture that contrasted well with the steamed bun and seasonings. In an otherwise well-serviced evening, the waitress should have advised us that there were only two buns and would be difficult to share.
Unfortunately, a dish that should be one of Kong's signatures falls like the monster off the Empire State Building. Ping's BBQ Pork Spare Ribs ($12) were coated in a one-dimensional sauce that was not only too cloying, but also had us scrambling for the wet wipes that came with the dish. If a rib is good, it's finger-licking good, not a good opportunity for a napkin salesman.
The dish is Lee's mother's recipe and authentic homestyle cooking. In this instance, I'd rather have the food remade to the American palate.
And, yes, I'll spare you the mother-in-law jokes here.
