Wine Thief deserves a reprieve

The dessert-arians at our table were pleasantly surprised by the simple but satisfying sweets - a genuine Southern pecan pie, a moist bread pudding marbled with pureed pumpkin - which brought a happy finale to the rousing Round 2.

Yes, there were still some lingering issues in service, like the 15-minute wait for a reserved table. But this time the bartender was aware enough to interact with good recommendations.

Our waiter was pleasant and involved, too, though he didn't know enough of the specifics that a wine-bar server ought to, such as being able to clearly describe the differences between the Argentine torrontes, a Saumur chenin blanc from the Loire, and a verdejo from Spain in more depth than a friendly shrug: "It's like splitting hairs."

Of course, Wine Thief really makes no pretense of being a destination for wine geeks – a crowd it relinquished with those clunky, thick-rimmed stemless glasses. But the Simpsons, who've worked in dining rooms from Philly's Four Seasons to Manhattan's Balthazar and Pastis, have certainly assembled a thoughtful list of wines that works for everyday drinking at a neighborhood bistro, which is exactly what they wanted to create.

And that's good news for a stretch of Germantown Avenue perpetually short on reliable dining options. If it were a wine in the barrel, I'd say it's still a ways from being fully mature, but starting to show some real promise.

Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Miga in Center City. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.