By the end of the night, as part of a charity tasting event at 14 mostly new restaurants in downtown Chelsea, a postindustrial city across the Chelsea River from Boston, Ash has sampled Middle Eastern baba ghanoush and Salvadoran horchata juice.
Two decades ago, having new eateries here (particularly without mobsters or illegal slot machines) would have been unthinkable.
But after becoming the first American municipality to lose democratic rights since England ruled the land, Chelsea - now led by its cheerleader, Ash - is back, financially and democratically. Vacant factories have become lofts, an industrial waterfront has attracted Bostonian hipsters, and public schools have become city assets.
Chelsea stands in stark contrast to another city that sits in the shadow of a major American metropolis and endured decades of industrial job loss, political corruption, and pervasive crime before being taken over: Camden, N.J.
The 1991 state takeover of Chelsea inspired the 2002 state takeover of Camden, officials in both states say, but while Massachusetts tackled political and bureaucratic reform, New Jersey funded studies but changed little. While Chelsea got a modern government receptive to citizen concerns about good schools and safe streets, Camden is a broke, bureaucratic nightmare with poor schools and a persistently high crime rate. While Chelsea's officials actively sought market-rate housing developments and businesses that hire unskilled labor, Camden still lacks middle-class housing and jobs.
And while Camden's takeover continues after seven years, democracy in Chelsea returned ahead of schedule, in three years.
Still, it's not too late for New Jersey's poorest city. A new governor and new mayor are coming in, and if politicians reevaluate control of Camden in the coming months, as they have vowed to do, Chelsea could serve as a model for Camden's next chapter of recovery.
Underlying issues