Food costs and politics had a hand in shaping chef Matthew Zagorski's pork Milanese at Rouge on Rittenhouse Square. Not only is veal so darned expensive, but "it's like foie gras - some people just don't want it," he says.
Zagorski pounds pork thinly, breads it in crushed panko, and serves it under sorrel for a wonderful, citrusy tang, along with a sweet cream of lettuce.
- Michael Klein
Pork Milanese ($26) at Rouge, 205 S. 18th St., 215-732-6622.