"Sometimes, we build the bubbles first," Halpern concedes, and "create the dish around it."
It's a backward, gimcrack-centric approach that sometimes shows in his weaker efforts. But Halpern proves himself to be a solid-enough chef to earn some allowance to have fun - which ultimately is the mind-bending appeal of molecular gastronomy to begin with.
Some diners will never get it. But for those who are open, it will be fascinating to watch as Halpern moves forward in his ever-changing-menu quest to meld that experimental sense of adventure with dishes that still have soul. I have no doubt that he's capable.
Even with desserts, you can taste an appealingly quirky sensibility at work, from profiteroles stuffed with butternut squash ice cream to the rich chocolate torte with pine-nut pudding and a delightfully tart gooseberry. Or the perfect creme brulee infused with bay leaf that was simply herbal and haunting.
Who could forget, though, the apple tart that arrived with a smoking "candle" of cinnamon stick engulfed in flame? Pungently aromatic, at once evocative of grandma pies past and a Christmas ornament store on fire, it's bound to stoke strong emotions. For the foam haters, it will undoubtedly be Marigold's last straw. I, however, simply snuffed it out in a glass of water like a strange cigar, took a scoop of melting brown butter ice cream, and then savored what turned out to be pretty darn good slice of old-fashioned apple pie.
Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Parker's Prime in Newtown Square. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.
