Table Talk: Schulson's pan-Asian Sampan sets sail

Chef Michael Schulson is behind Sampan (124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501), a mod pan-Asian incorporating elements from his time as chef at Pod and at New York's Buddakan, before he launched his own place, Izakaya, in Atlantic City's Borgata.

Schulson, who hosted the Style Network's Pantry Raid and TLC's Ultimate Cake-Off, has an open, Momofuku-esque aesthetic from Sparks Design, simple yet comfy, with distressed metals and reclaimed wood. Side walls glow behind what appear to be barren trees. A black walnut bar (sake, Asian beers, cocktails) sits in the middle, in front of an open kitchen. In warmer weather, there'll be a bar/lounge out back. Randal Mrazik, also a Starr alum, will run the place.

The small-plate menu (see it at sampanphilly.com), will be executed by right-hand man Leo Forneas and features Schulson's signature edamame dumplings, rolls, noodle dishes, appetizers (such as a Maine lobster roll dressed up with yuzu, crispy shallots and Chinese celery); top price is $19 for a petit filet with Japanese mustard, soy butter, and fries.