Changing tastes

The local dining scene, vibrant and varied, has evolved since 2000: Fewer white tablecloths but more BYOs, gastropubs, homegrown comfort.

December 31, 2009|By Rick Nichols & Craig LaBan, INQUIRER FOOD WRITERS
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  • The elegant Butcher & Singer , 1500 Walnut St., is one of the many steak houses that have crowded into Philadelphia in a boom touched off by the success of Capital Grill and Barclay Prime.
  • The elegant Butcher & Singer , 1500 Walnut St., is one of the many steak houses that have crowded into Philadelphia in a boom touched off by the success of Capital Grill and Barclay Prime.
  • With the comeback of comfort foods - such as this mac-and-cheese beauty at 10 Arts in the Ritz-Carlton Philadelphia - restaurants have added fare to satisfy those homestyle longings.
  • Susanna Foo, at 1512 Walnut St. , closed last summer, one of the Restaurant Row elite that left Center City even as BYOs and more casual dining flourished in Philadelphia neighborhoods.
  • BONNIE WELLER / Staff Photographer
  • JASON MELCHER / Staff Photographer
  • Tastemakers: Philadelphia's dining scene owes much to (from left) Marc Vetri and Jose Garces, masters of Italian and Latin flavors; and restaurant empire-builder Stephen Starr.
  • Pierre and Charlotte Calmels in the dining room of their BYO bistro, Bibou.
  • DAVID MAIALETTI / Staff Photographer

Ten years ago, who'd have thought there'd be a $26 burger and a steak house on every (other) block? But here we are, as mixed-message as ever - packs of food bloggers sniffing out the terroir of the cheese, and open-air farm markets turning the city into a locavore's paradise. And, yo! Whose idea was it to put foie gras in the scrapple?

BYO boom

Few trends redefined Philly's dining landscape as powerfully as the proliferation of BYOBs, a phenomenon unique to this region that saw tiny bistros like Django, Melograno, and Bibou transform low-frills spaces into dining destinations with serious culinary ambition, added value, and a dash of throwback "mom-and-pop" warmth. BYOs cut across all genres, brought new life to emerging neighborhoods, and have given traditional full-service restaurants, with their triple-markup wine lists, formidable competition.

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Beer

While the local wine world has struggled, Philly's enthusiastic beer scene has built itself into a tipsy froth. There's been a craft revival in a region with historic ties to brewing, and the rollicking Philly Beer Week has in just two years become one of the largest such events in the nation, celebrating both local offerings and the region's uncommon embrace of international ales (especially from Belgium), and a dynamic beer bar scene that's pouring real brew from South Philly to suburban Wayne.

Gastropubs

The great beer explosion has been coupled with a kindred food movement in bar kitchens, too, as pioneers like the Standard Tap, N. 3rd, the Good Dog Bar, and now Pub & Kitchen take taproom dining to another level with wit, value, and sophisticated flavors. Along with BYOBs, gastropubs have reenergized neighborhoods across the region with quality dining in character-filled, casual settings.

Farm market revival

It wasn't just the Reading Terminal Market that got a second wind. Small-scale, outdoor, weekly farm markets popped up all over town - West Philly's Clark Park, Fitler Square, Rittenhouse Square, and in an awesome special edition, under the colonial-brick arcades at Society Hill's historic Head House Square. For locavores, the grass got a lot greener without leaving the city limits.

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