But of course, Gonçalves' house-baked sweets should not be missed. Her moist shredded coconut tart, bound with yolk-enriched syrup, is one of the richest coconut desserts around. The chocolate "salami" (ganache rolled with crushed cookies into a tube then sliced) comes with cinnamon whipped cream and chestnut-stuffed, chocolate-dipped figs that are worth a dessert on their own. My favorite, though, was the baked heirloom apple special. Topped with a bubbly crown of caramel and hazelnuts over a lemony baked custard, it was just the kind of gem that blurs the line between restaurant and home cooking, with a simple look of rustic comfort, but a refined intensity that makes an impression on the paying public.
Koo Zee Doo
No fusion here: In NoLibs, a BYO takes a Portuguese plunge, the rustic fare refined with deft technique and sophistication.
(Page 4 of 4)
Story continues below.
It's a rare and delicate balance indeed, not unlike a powerful fado folk ballad. But KooZeeDoo hits those notes with a soulful touch that is satisfying from start to finish.
Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews Chew Man Chu on Avenue of the Arts. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.
|
|
|
|
|