A pleasant lunch in the Capitol Cafe, until . . .

January 29, 2010|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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  • Fries, onion rings, and burgers are staples of Harrisburgs health-code-beleaguered Capitol Cafe. The service area yesterday was all smiling staff and squeaky-clean displays.
  • Fries, onion rings, and burgers are staples of Harrisburgs health-code-beleaguered Capitol Cafe. The service area yesterday was all smiling staff and squeaky-clean displays.
  • State Rep. Dwight Evans dresses a salad at the Capitol Cafe. (BOB WILLIAMS)

HARRISBURG - Certainly, there would be no "mice-and-beans" or "rat-atouille" lunch specials on the menu.

But with a track record of dismal health inspections like the one that Philadelphia-based Aramark Corp. has racked up lately at the Capitol Cafe in the state capital, the punch lines were bound to come.

"So, we going to the poop-ateria?" said James Roxbury, a cafeteria regular who runs an online news service, as he welcomed me to lunch yesterday. With a buildup like that, how could I say no?

Aramark's shockingly persistent failure to pass basic health inspections in the airy atrium dining facility, where 1,500 politicos, state employees, and tourists eat each day, has been a magnet for all the wrong kinds of headlines.

Story continues below.

The cafeteria was closed for two weeks in December after 54 health-code violations, including a droppings-laden rodent infestation. Then it failed a surprise inspection Monday at the very moment Aramark executives were testifying before the joint House State Government and Agriculture Committee with apologies and vows of corrective action.

The events have consumed cafeteria cognoscenti like Roxbury, who frequents the cafe daily to eat and upload video to his Roxbury News Service.

"Of course, there were at least 70 subpoenas being served around the Capitol yesterday for Bonusgate. But this is all anyone wants to talk about – Rodentgate."

Among the most unsavory details of Monday's health inspection by the state Department of Agriculture were a hairnet in the sink, hot dogs that weren't hot enough, and numerous mouse droppings, including one inside a large bowl at the kitchen mixer.

Note to self: Avoid the chocolate-chip muffins.

But if I was expecting to discover the Ptomaine Palace on the Susquehanna, I was sorely disappointed by first impressions.

The service area was all smiling staff and squeaky-clean displays. The romaine lettuce leaves were perfectly stacked on the salad bar, and the pickles were lined up straight. A cornucopia of produce bobbed like colorful confetti atop the "Farm Fresh Vegetable" soup. And hairnets, of course, were cinching the brows of every food handler and tie-wearing manager, including one who was conspicuously taking an instant temperature reading on a chicken panini.

"Whew, that's hot!" he said, looking up to mug for the crowd as if he were on the Food Network.

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