A birthday shock from Washington's chef

Researchers recently found proof that Hercules fled Mt. Vernon on Feb. 22, 1797.

February 22, 2010|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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  • The kitchen at Washington's Mount Vernon estate, from which Hercules was banished in 1796. Because Washington feared his trusted cook was planning to escape, he ordered him assigned to hard labor outdoors.
  • The kitchen at Washington's Mount Vernon estate, from which Hercules was banished in 1796. Because Washington feared his trusted cook was planning to escape, he ordered him assigned to hard labor outdoors.
  • Mary V. Thompson, a research historian at Washington's estate at Mount Vernon, recently found the farm report proving that Hercules fled the Virginia farm on Washington's birthday.
  • Gilbert Stuart painted the famous portrait of Washington at left. Not so certain is who painted the chef, at right, who has long been rumored to be Hercules, possibly after finding a post in Europe.

Second of two parts.

There was cannon fire in Philadelphia on the morning of Feb. 22, 1797, as 16 rounds of salute - one for each state - rang out in celebration of the nation's greatest hero.

It was the 65th birthday of George Washington, the "man who united all hearts," as John Quincy Adams called him. And with Washington's final weeks as president ahead, the event was celebrated with "more sincere joy" than ever, according to the Philadelphia Gazette. People of all classes paraded to the President's House at Sixth and Market. At the ball that night, there were so many splendid dancing ladies and gentlemen "the room appeared like a grove of moving plumes," the paper wrote.

Story continues below.

At Mount Vernon, however, Washington's birthday began with a sobering discovery: Hercules was gone.

Hercules had been the president's prized cook, a charismatic slave whom Washington had handpicked to come north to Philadelphia, where he prepared celebrated feasts for the Washingtons and their stream of high-profile guests.

But recent revelations in historic farm reports from Mount Vernon have turned up a new twist to the 213-year-old story of Hercules and his escape.

Contradictory to long-held beliefs, the chef did not flee from his vaunted position in Philadelphia at the end of Washington's second term. He had landed in distinctly less comfortable circumstances that miserable winter.

Washington was on guard to prevent another escape during his final months in Philadelphia, where in the spring of 1796 Martha's maid, Oney Judge, had run away. So when he returned to the capitol that fall, Washington left Hercules in Virginia.

Runaways from Washington's estate weren't uncommon, and though some managed to flee to the British during the Revolution, most failed, writes Wiencek. Four men escaped in 1761, only to be recaptured. A slave named Sam was caught several times trying to run away. One named Tom was caught and sent away in handcuffs to be sold in the West Indies. Hercules' literate contemporary Christopher was caught when a note to his wife detailing his escape plans was discovered.

Oney Judge proved Philadelphia was a risk. But back at Mount Vernon, surely, Hercules would be secure.

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