Satisfying - by any name

Stuffed cabbage is hearty and nutritious, a fact recognized in recipes of many lands.

February 25, 2010|By Dianna Marder, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • Holishkes are the Romanian version of stuffed cabbage that, in Briton Clarissa Hyman's book, are made with beef or lamb wrapped in savoy cabbage and cooked with lemon and brown sugar.
  • Holishkes are the Romanian version of stuffed cabbage that, in Briton Clarissa Hyman's book, are made with beef or lamb wrapped in savoy cabbage and cooked with lemon and brown sugar.

The Polish call them golabki and Russians golubtsy. In Azerbaijan, they're kelem dolmasi, and generations of Jewish grandmothers called them prakkes.

But it is stuffed cabbage all the same. And by any name it is deliciously satisfying on cold winter days.

Some recipes use beef, pork, or lamb, rice or barley, onion and parsley. Others add apples, raisins, sauerkraut, bacon, or tomatoes. They're served with an avgolemono or egg-and-lemon sauce in Greece. And during Lent, Serbian Orthodox cooks make a meatless version called posna sarma.

If you have Eastern European roots, you likely have a family recipe - and a distinctive name - for this hearty dish, beloved for its rustic flavor and for the fact that it makes the most of a vegetable that's plentiful, inexpensive, and good for you.

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Cabbage may be better at fighting some cancers, heart disease, and ulcers than its close cousins collard greens, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and broccoli, or its sibling kale - that according to a book out this month, The 10 Things You Need to Eat by Dave Lieberman and Anahad O'Connor (William Morrow).

A single serving of coleslaw meets the USDA recommended daily allowance of Vitamin K. And cabbage is rich in Vitamins A and C, calcium, fiber, folate, even omega 3.

Still, not everyone's a fan.

"Cabbage has a negative reputation," says cookbook author Aliza Green, a James Beard award winner, "especially among people old enough to recall the smell of overcooked cabbage wafting through the hallways of boardinghouses and tenement apartments."

As a dish of basic sustenance for poor families for decades, cabbage has yet to turn the corner to foodie treat as did its peasant equal, polenta.

The most familiar variety of cabbage comes in tightly packed green heads and plays a starring role in most stuffed cabbage and sauerkraut recipes.

Shredded red cabbage adds color to salads. Savoy is a more mellow variety, with more loosely packed, crinkled leaves that work well with stuffed cabbage recipes too.

Napa, often referred to as Chinese cabbage, is another species altogether. It can be filled with a vegetable mixture, wrapped and steamed, Green says, but it doesn't work as well for traditional stuffed cabbage dishes that are cooked a long time.

In our environs, stuffed cabbage is on the menu almost year-round at Effie's Greek restaurant at 11th and Pine; Famous Fourth Street Deli at Fourth and Bainbridge; Syrenka in Port Richmond; and Balkan Express at 22d Street and Grays Ferry Avenue.

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