GoodTaste

Posted: March 04, 2010

Buns of pork!

Those who expected Doma (Korean for "cutting board") to be a clone of its sister restaurant, Shiroi Hana, the 15th Street sushi bar, have been a bit surprised - and not unpleasantly. Sushi still dominates the menu here, but there's a distinctive accent of chef-owner Robert Moon's native Korea as well, especially in the rice dishes, the (bulgogi) Bento Box, and appetizers.

One of our favorites is the soft steamed buns with a touch of sweet hoisin sauce folded over generous slices of perfectly tender (but not overly fatty), slow-braised pork belly. The dish gets its crunch from chips of mildly pickled cucumber, reminiscent of the pickle-and-brisket sandwiches featured at Texas barbecue joints. (Non-pork-eaters can opt for buns stuffed with sauteed shiitake mushrooms.)

- Rick Nichols

Steamed pork belly buns, $7 for two, Doma, 1822 Callowhill St., 215-564-1114.

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