The judges decree: No cheese with a fish dish

March 18, 2010

Here are excerpts from Craig LaBan's online chat:

Reader: Craig, it seems that in the last six months, the judges on the food shows I watch (Top Chef, Iron Chef America) have united in their opinion that serving fish with cheese is a high culinary crime. How did this opinion originate?

Craig LaBan: Thanks for asking; I know it came up when I recently balked at the cheese-on-seafood pasta dish at Gemelli. I'm not sure exactly where this aversion originated - certainly somewhere in Italy - but it makes sense to me in this context: Fistfuls of grated sharp Parmigiano-Reggiano can overwhelm something delicate like a seafood pasta. There are exceptions to this "rule," it should not obstruct right-minded creativity. But for classic presentations, it should apply.

Reader: My husband and I have moved here from Mexico, and miss the cuisine. Where would you send someone looking for simple but amazing street-style food?

CL: We've come a long way in our Mexican restaurant scene over the last few years. My favorite taquerias? La Lupe and Los Taquitos de Puebla and Restaurante Acapulco in the Italian Market. Que Chula es Puebla and Taco Riendo in Fishtown/Kensington. Mexico Lindo in Camden. For Nuevo, we also have Distrito, El Vez, and the newly remade and slightly downscaled Xochitl, which I haven't been to yet. I'll be curious to see what you think. . . .

Reader: Craig, are you familiar with a buffalo milk cheese called Quadrello di Bufala? I picked up a chunk last night, and it was sublime. A bit like a Taleggio but firmer and with a light, tangy finish. Fantastic with the Ballast Point Yellowtail IPA that I recently discovered.

CL: Obviously, you've been shopping over at the $50-store (a.k.a. DiBruno's). This is one of my favorite Italian cheeses there, definitely related in style to Taleggio. But paler in color with a bright buffalo tang.

Reader: Craig, had a great meal at Hoof & Fin (the old Gayle) on Third: mahimahi, gnocchi, crepes for dessert! Really good. Possibly my favorite part though was when our table wasn't ready the hostess/owner pulled us to the tiny bar in the dining room and poured us a glass of wine while we waited . . . it was a nice touch and was fun. . . . Do you know of any other BYO's that have a bar where you can sit and have a drink before your dinner (albeit a drink you brought). . . . Think it's a great idea.

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