Doma a fine Callowhill eatery-row addition: It's a sleek, casual BYOB, but you might want to BYOG

March 19, 2010|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Among Doma's many Asian delicacies are these pork-belly steamed buns.

If you have three young children and a restaurant, you'd think your life was busy enough. But when Robert and Patti Moon, who have owned Shiroi Hana, in Center City, since 1995, sent the last toddler to Montessori school, they figured it was time to nurture another restaurant.

Located on what is becoming a nice stretch of diverse eateries on Callowhill Street, Doma opened its doors about a month ago.

This is a more casual venue than Shiroi Hana and offers an interesting menu of cold and hot appetizers that are perfect plates for sharing. Each is beautifully presented and shows off a contemporary fusion.

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The Hamachi crudo - composed of yellowtail and wasabi edamame puree, and seasoned with jalapeƱo, cilantro and yuzu ($9) - was a good example of that fusion. The texture of the fish was accented by the puree, and that hit of pepper heat with the acidity of the yuzu was a perfect balance.

The Octopus Ceviche with mango salsa ($7) also blended textures, colors and shapes to create a dish that appeals to all the senses. And the Lobster Roll Special ($13) artfully displayed a small tail in both tempura and a tasty seasoned roll.

Don't miss the traditional Okonomiyaki ($7). This street-food fare is best described as a cross between a seafood pancake and omelet. It was topped with fish flakes so thin that they flutter on top of the dish, offering a kinetic touch along with a slight perfume.

My panel and I found that the Sashimi sampler ($20) was good, but not remarkable. The tuna was judged flabby in texture by all tasters, and only the red snapper with was truly stellar.

The signature Korean dish, Bibimbap, came in a hot stone pot, and while it had the requisite rice crust on the bottom, it lacked a little sizzle. We opted for the beef and egg yolk ($13) version, and the general consensus was that it lacked flavor even when doused with the accompanying sauce.

All of the tasters enjoyed the Nabeyaki Udon Noodle Soup ($13). It came with a side of tempura vegetables, but the best part was the poached egg that cooked in the broth. When the yolk burst it added a creaminess to the soup. I have developed an addiction to the Sichimi pepper condiment and wish that this dish was on the lunch menu, though.

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