Drink

Posted: March 21, 2010

Old Passover hands know all about Israel as the "land of milk and honey." Is it time to add "good cab and merlot" to that list?

I'd say it's definitely time for an official end to the obligatory Manischewitz syrup torture-test (sweet wine nostalgists, of course, are welcome to their juicy-juice). Israel's wine industry has made major strides in recent years, according to no less a guru than Robert Parker. And based on this newly available line of impressive kosher wines from Tabor, one of Israel's rising wineries, I absolutely agree.

Imported by a local group of friends - Philadelphia Common Pleas Court Judge Ramy Djerassi and his wife, Monica; Caroline Goldberg Igra and her husband, former Mossad official Rami Igra - there are two tiers of Tabor in state stores, the higher-end Adama line at $19.99 and the Galil series at $14.99, each also classified by the soil type they grew in.

The Adamas have more depth than the Galils, but all show an impressive blend of vivid fruit and food-friendly terroir. My favorites were the "volcanic soil" Adama cab (black plum, cocoa, cedar and bright acidity); the Galil merlot (fruit-forward and drinkable once aired); and the surprisingly lovely Galil chardonnay, which delivered a quaff of mineral and pears with a sweet whiff of beeswax.

At this year's seder, that "fruit of the vine" will get an extra sip.

- Craig LaBan

Tabor's Adama series, $19.99, and Galil series, $14.99, are widely available in Pennsylvania's Premium Selection stores.

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