'Nose-to-tail' dining; the Piazza farmers market

April 15, 2010

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat:

Reader: I was in San Francisco and had dinner at Incanto. The offal dishes were outstanding . . . brains and sweetbreads risotto, tuna heart, kidneys. It was also refreshing to actually see chef Chris Cosentino working the kitchen. I wish there were more places in our area that served unusual dishes such as this.

CL: We definitely took a small offal hit when Ansill closed, but it was only brief. David Ansill is back and cooking his marrow out at Ladder 15. Pierre Calmels is stuffing pig's feet with foie gras at Bibou. And chefs across Philadelphia are giving the "nose to tail" trend a serious exploration. At Amis, there is an entire section devoted to offal - almond-dusted sweetbreads; deep-fried lamb's tongue and serious Roman tripe.

Story continues below.

Reader: Craig, why do you like gross things? I could never eat a lamb . . . or the brains of a cow . . . or that jazz. . . .

CL: That's a good question. As long as you eat meat, I think you should be open to the whole animal. Most of the world eats this way, and local chefs are simply reviving peasant traditions when they learn to cook the spare parts. These ingredients are less expensive, so it's classic recession cooking. There is a texture to a good fried sweetbread - like the most tender chicken nugget you ever had - that can't be replicated. Marrow, too. Nothing like a good creamy smear atop a steak or burger. When you have a good version of tripe, in a bowl of pho for instance, it is transcendent, like some exotic frilly noodle. There's more to good food than boneless chicken breasts and filet mignon - learning to eat some of these cuts is part of the progression to a more sophisticated eating culture.

Reader: My husband and I are traveling up from DC to celebrate our 5-year anniversary. I made reservations for Vetri. What is the attire - jackets? Also, looking for other recommendations. I love how the city has built a great scene on BYOs. We are in our early 30s, love all types of food, unpretentious settings.

CL: I'm going to let some chatters help with the recommendations - we have so many good ones, I hate to choose. As for Vetri, part of its charm is its ability to be a fine dining venue and remain casual. People dress up a little, a jacket is not be out of place - but I've also seen people in jeans at the back table. No pretense whatsoever, just a great dining experience.

1 | 2 | Next »
|
|
|
|
|