The Hungarian region of Tokaji is legendary for the unusually earthy and ethereal sweet Aszu wines that share the Tokaji name. But furmint, the principal grape used in those dessert bottles, has lately been finding new life in dry wines of real distinction.
This 2006 dry furmint from Royal Tokaji, the company co-founded by British wine writer Hugh Johnson, is a great example. It has a straw-golden luster and a bone-dry first sip, but instead of fading away like a lightweight sauvignon blanc, it brings a brassy next wave of flavor that quenches the tongue with minerals and a lingering squirt of lemon and green apples. It's a refreshing and crisp wine with food - especially light seafoods - but has enough body to offer some substance for richer dishes, too.