Meat buffet at a lean price: Casa Brasil's $10 daily specials cater to locals

May 28, 2010|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Grilled meats are a specialty in Brazil, and at Casa Brasil, as well.

A BRAZILIAN buffet is a showcase of tastes. It is a cuisine with influences from its own indigenous peoples, Portugal and Africa plus ingredients from the rain forest and the sea.

And, in my estimation, lots of tastes is a fine way to dine.

The tradition of a Brazilian buffet has resulted in several chains, such as Fogo de Chao and Chima, with abundant all-you-can eat offerings. They are pricey, and I often find the meat much too salty and thirst-inducing. And there's a Disneyesque element to the atmosphere, with the costumed servers and over-the-top décor.

Casa Brasil, in the Northeast, is much more affordable and caters to the local Brazilian population. It has been so successful that owner Linalva Coelho is opening a second location, in Delran, N.J.

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Unlike the big chains, Coelho's buffet offers different specialties on specific days. On Wednesdays you'll find Chicken with okra and a polenta that is typical of Northern Brazil.

Thursdays the featured dish is Costela, or spare ribs, and it comes with Canjiquinha which, near as I can tell, is Brazilian grits.

On Fridays you'll find Dobradinha (a tripe dish) as well as Moqueca de Peixe, a typical fish stew from the northeast state of Bahia that pairs a mild fish with the richness of coconut milk and dende coconut oil.

Sundays feature Feijao Tropeiro, a dish of pinto beans similar to refried beans and served with kale.

One of the highlights on my visit was that on Saturdays Feijoada is available. As my Brazilian taster explained to me, this is a dish beloved by expats and considered to be a true taste of home.

Feijoada is based on black beans, sausage and dry salted meats, with a number of components that are served with the dish. Most unusual is Farofa, a toasted manioc flour that is sprinkled over the dish as it is served to add depth and texture.

A chiffonade of kale is also an accompaniment, and in this case my tasters and I found this slightly undercooked.

But the true test of a Brazilian buffet is the grilled meats. Casa Brasil breaks down its meat in the kitchen to create the standard Brazilian cuts, which are different from ours. The meat is then grilled over coals to create more of a char than smoked taste.

The finest would be the Picanha, which sits on skewers on the grill and is sliced onto your plate.

While my piece was tender with robust flavor, one of my tasters received a slightly tough serving. A replacement piece, however, is easily found.

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