Taste-testing the Philly region's best beers

It is one of the great ironies of the now-gargantuan brewfest that has become Philly Beer Week: The bigger it gets, the less it is about Philadelphia's own beers.

Indeed, as the festival floods local taprooms with visiting brewers from San Diego to Belgium, some hometown beer guys like Bill Barton of the Philadelphia Brewing Co. gnash their teeth as they temporarily lose tap handles, and drinkers' attention, while the hops-light is shining brightest.

"They should call it Beer Week in Philly, instead, because it's not about the locals," grumbles Barton. "If you're from around the corner [people] just aren't that interested."

Beer Week executive director Don Russell disagrees, insisting that the local breweries are active participants, and that the festivities boost beer awareness for the rest of the year. In fact, Russell is among those who have long argued that Philadelphia is "America's greatest beer-drinking city" in part because of its embrace of an international range of beers, as well as those from Kensington.

Still, we decided it was time - before that extra tidal wave of out-of-town ale hits when Beer Fest opens Friday - to give the region's homegrown beers a closer look.

And thus was born the first Philadelphia Inquirer Local Brew-vitational, a comprehensive tasting of the fresh flavors being crafted by the local beer scene right now. Which were the most exciting new creations, and who has the hottest hand at the kettle? What are the big trends? And, has our beer scene defined its own unique identity?

These were just a few of the questions going into the Brew-vitational, which asked craft brewers throughout the region, from Harrisburg to Milton, Del., to submit their latest efforts (issued in the last six months) to a panel of seven judges for consideration.