Karen Heller: Semaine de la Bière, ooh-la-la!

It's three courses and five brews when Le Bec-Fin hosts a Beer Week event.

June 13, 2010|By Karen Heller, Inquirer Columnist
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  • B.R. Rolya (left) and Joe Gold listen to Georges Perrier discussing beer. That evening, he enjoyed a blonde French farmhouse ale.
  • Executive chef Nicholas Elmi , at left, explains his culinary choices for the evening that included dark beer-braised pate du porc anda truffle boudin blanc. Above,a beer is poured into a wine glass.

Among the 1,000 events of Beer Week, concluding Sunday after, in true beer fashion, nine days, one grabbed my attention, to say nothing of my gullet: "Semaine de la Bière comes to Le Bec-Fin."

The notion of investigative drinking in the gilt-and-chandelier dining room of Philadelphia's most venerable French restaurant struck me as inspired. The announcement was poetry, not quite Verlaine or Baudelaire, but close.

The meal promised five beers and three courses, a tough job but someone had to do it. Our hosts were Philly Beer Week executive director Don Russell, also known as suds scribe Joe Sixpack, or Joe Sixpaquet for this occasion, and French import specialist B.R. Rolya.

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Sixpaquet appeared in surprisingly good shape considering this was his 30th event of the week, and he had sampled 47 homebrews before 2 p.m. the previous day.

People who are willing to shell out $75 (before tax and gratuity) for a French beer dinner are an unusual sort. The French are known for a great many things, as they are the first to tell you, but beer is not one of them. I believe Kronenbourg is French for "not Miller, but close," and the nation's greatest advantage when it comes to beer is its proximity to Belgium and Germany.

At our table, under a Rococo ceiling fresco of Fragonard's The Swing, I was surrounded by 17 beer geeks - beeks? - hops obsessives who are fluent in all things beer as opposed to the thirsty multitudes who simply think "Bière, bien."

There were home brewers, beer tourists, beer bloggers, people employed in the beer trade, owners of monstrous cellars stocked with as many as 150 different cases of beers. All of the patrons were fluent in the heady language of beers.

Many of the beer geeks were bi-bibulous - OK, I made that word up - that is, they like beer and wine.

An astonishing number were schoolteachers.

They posed philosophical quandaries such as "I still haven't found the right beer to go with ribs, just as I haven't found a wine that goes with salad," but, ever hopeful, continue on a lifelong, possibly quixotic search to find them.

Beer geeks like all brews but bad beer, specifically the flavor-deprived lager too many Americans swill. Might as well drink water, they said.

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