Delicatessen: New villa of nova's taste fusions earn some yeahs, a few fehs

June 18, 2010|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Customers wait for their orders at the restaur-ant, at 7th and Chestnut streets.

Much of my workweek is in Old City and I always enjoyed the occasional lunch trip to Kibbitz in the City. The snappy, if not demanding, service and overstuffed deli sandwiches were reminiscent of work lunches in Manhattan.

So, when Michael Spector took over the Kibbitz location after it closed and opened Delicatessen in February, I was curious. There was much "kibitzing" on the street that had to be confirmed or denied.

The vibe is definitely younger and moving to what Spector calls Modern Jewish.

He says, "It's an evolution. I like to respect tradition, but push the boundaries."

While I miss the Kibbitz hubbub and direct approach of the waitresses, one has to accept that eventually the younger generation will put their stamp on things.

Now that he's a few months into the breakfast, brunch and lunch business, Spector is also setting the table for dinner Wednesdays through Saturdays, from 4 to 6 p.m. Entrées range from $14 to $17 and come with salad or soup and a choice of a second side.

The Hanukkah Salmon ($17) is a fun riff on the classic potato-crusted fish filet. In this dish, pan-seared salmon is encrusted in a crispy potato latke rather than sliced potatoes.

The lemon butter sauce was almost superfluous, but the accompanying garlic spinach was a tasty way to get some antioxidants. It is also available as a side dish.

Henny's Half a Roasted Chicken with challah stuffing and gravy ($16) was reminiscent of Sunday with Bubby. You sure won't walk away from the table hungry. The chicken was moist, but the skin crisp, which all good bubbies know how to do.

The entrées were enjoyable, but the soup and sides were hit-or-miss. The gazpacho soup had a slightly tinny taste of canned tomatoes. The corn chowder would have been a rave if it hadn't been served tepid.

The cucumber salad had seen better days, but the sautéed green beans, carrots and squash was an easy way to get your vegetables down so that you're allowed to have dessert.

Although the dinner menu has been in place for only three weeks, it's on the heavy side for this time of year. Spector is aware of that, and the menu will start to reflect more seasonal offerings, including more chilled soups.

On a daytime visit, I tried takeout.

Spector's evolution sometimes pushes dishes a little too far over the edge, such as Bubby's Kitchen Sink Pho ($6).

Michael, bubeleh, what are you doing? Leave well enough alone.

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