Hoof + Fin in Philadelphia celebrates flavors of Argentina

I was less thrilled with the risotto, which was more watery pilaf than naturally creamy rice. The beef tataki was also a miss, the nearly raw meat sloppily sliced into long ribbons that were awkward to eat. Among the cold appetizers, I preferred the tuna ceviche, with its bright yuzu marinade and contrasting crunches of spicy radish and sweet watermelon. The crab salad, tossed in a zesty cocktail sauce with hearts of palm, cilantro, and scallions, was a refreshing take on a classic. The fluke carpaccio, though, was a letdown, with too many strong flavors - ruby grapefruit and truffled citrus - competing with the delicate fish. Likewise for the cornmeal-crusted calamari, whose ketchup-y citrus barbecue sauce was distractingly sweet.

Complaints about the food, however, were relatively few, as I munched from the rustic goodness of meat- and corn-filled empanadas wrapped in half-moons of flaky house-made dough, to a bountiful arroz a la Gallega, a sort of paella-bouillabaisse hybrid that brought a wonderfully cooked medley of seafood (snappy shrimp, briny clams, tender mussels, and white fish) in a soupy mound of rice soaked in turmeric-scented tomato broth spiked with chorizo.

Desserts are limited, but you'll be happy sticking with anything lavished in Barroz' house-made dulce de leche, such as the panqueque crepes rolled around caramel-sauced fruit.

Though this kitchen uses good ingredients that for the most part merit the prices, from the high teens to the high $20s, the simple "from the grill" items did strike me as a bit austere for the fee, especially the plate that skimpily brought just three scallops (albeit excellent ones) for $22.

But my biggest gripes here, really, concern the lax service and especially the noise, which is imposing even by Philly BYO standards. Good luck hearing the server explain the nightly specials - let alone talking to a friend across the table. (Though our waiter came to us still chewing a mouthful of his snack, so it's unclear we would have understood him anyway.) I don't recall Gayle being this loud. But the ambiance was far more pleasant during the lighter crowds of midweek, when Astor Piazzolla's bandoneon tangos actually could be heard dancing from the stereo, and on mild-weathered nights when more tranquil seats are available in the light-strung back garden patio.

Either way, if Barroz keeps cooking like this, Hoof + Fin is likely to be packed + lively for some time to come.

Next Sunday, Craig LaBan reviews the Garces Trading Co. in Washington Square West. Contact him at 215-854-2682 or claban@phillynews.com.