Over the next three decades, the family business became something of a neighborhood institution just south of Snyder Avenue - a "wonderful place with the most wonderful smells," recalls Helene Feinberg, a student with Gloria at Philadelphia High School for Girls in the mid-1940s. Gloria worked the register "as soon as she could count," brother Stanley Gittelman says, while he - the younger sibling by three years - helped make egg cartons in back.
While Gittelman wishes his niece well as she faces intense national scrutiny, Yiddish pessimism has a way of interfering with family pride.
"Maybe I'm coming from the shtetl," said the 77-year-old dentist from Northeast Philadelphia. "But if she does well, it's not going to help me any. If she does badly, it's on [the family's] head."
And, perhaps, on Philadelphia's - though Gloria Gittelman did move away at age 20, after graduating from Penn State, to marry New York lawyer Robert Kagan in 1950.
"I remember because the Phillies won the pennant that year," Gittelman said.
According to Gittelman, he and his sister were raised in a household that Liked Ike - and Nixon and Goldwater and Reagan. His father broke with the Republican ticket just once, to reward Harry S. Truman for recognizing Israel's sovereignty.
Gittelman remembers a young Elena Kagan as "just another kid, sitting on the beach, going in the water" at her grandparents' Atlantic City home, where Gittelman's parents moved after closing the butter-and-egg shop in the early 1960s. (A Cambodian market now stands in its place.) He has not seen Kagan, he says, since his sister's funeral in July 2008.