They're easy as old-fashioned pie

MyHouse Cookies stuffs the finest, freshest fruit, not fakey filling, into buttery crusts. What a farmstand find.

July 04, 2010|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist
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  • Two pounds of berries in each: Blueberry pie done right by MyHouse Cookies, at Oakmont Farmers Market, Havertown.
  • Two pounds of berries in each: Blueberry pie done right by MyHouse Cookies, at Oakmont Farmers Market, Havertown.
  • Marie Connell, owner of MyHouse Cookies, stacks her blueberry pies for sale at the Oakmont market.

Aproned Marie Connell and, on occasion, her husband Tom, find it mystifying - OK, they find it darn near criminal - what's passed off as real fruit pie these days.

They may spot pails of premixed pie fillings in a bakery next to signs touting pies made from scratch: The filling is already made, for goodness sake. What is it, again, Tom asks, that you are making "from scratch"?

Don't get them started on supermarket pies: They give pie a bad name. It's not real crust, says Marie. And look at the label. "How can high-fructose syrup be the first ingredient in an apple pie? And not apples?"

Story continues below.

This venting is occurring on Parkside Avenue (at 50th, in West Philadelphia) where the bake shop of Marie's juggernaut - MyHouse Cookies - was going full tilt one day last week, trays of fresh blueberry pies getting baked off for the weekly Oakmont Farmers Market the next afternoon (Wednesday) in Havertown.

It didn't take spy-work to see what was going in Marie's pies: There were cartons of Jersey blueberries on one pastry table; a full two pounds go in each large-size pie. Boxes of unsalted butter. Flats of fresh eggs. A shaker of cinnamon. Lemon juice. A touch of cornstarch. Pretty much the ingredients of the huckleberry pies her grandmother made up near Scranton, where Marie grew up.

Before continuing (because why continue if the things aren't worth it), let us note that these are wonderful, rustic, juice-stained, lattice-topped fruit pies, their tender real-butter crust recalling aproned grandmas; the fruit's flavor enhanced, not buried; the filling firm and berry-sweet, not runny and syrupy-sweet.

You want to slap a blue ribbon on the pies. Though at Oakmont (or SIW Vegetables, the farmstand in Chadds Ford; or Wolff's Apple House in Lima; or the Swarthmore Co-op Farm Market) the pies tend to get snatched up in high season, which is, well, who needs a blue ribbon? (Six-inchers go for $5.50; the 10-inchers, $12.95.)

The strawberry pies are finishing up, and the rhubarb is fading. Peach is coming on soon. It'll be paired with blackberries eventually. But right now it's blueberry time: "The first seven people," Marie says about her Oakmont sales, "will be blueberry pies."

She started with just cookies six years ago in 300 feet of leased space in the Lower Merion Vocational Training Center in Wynnewood, which explains the MyHouse Cookies name.

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