Wilhelmina: New girl in town

They do like to point out that their agencies don't charge talent as much, upfront, for certain services. Upon signing a contract with Wilhelmina, models are asked to pay a one-time $1,775 fee, which covers a professional test shoot, comp cards, a portfolio and ongoing workshops on walking and nutrition. If a model already has a book, all or some of the fees can be waived.

While other agencies may ask their clients to seek out the same services, models can shop around and then pay the vendors. The only service the agencies get paid for directly is for posting models' online portfolios: Expressions charges between $100 to $150 to post a model's portfolio, Lange said. And Reinhard charges about $250.

Critics also cite 12-year-old charges levied against Walters by the Pennsylvania Attorney General's Office. It claimed in 1998 that Excel Model Management, Walters' former agency, charged models hundreds of dollars for classes and photography with promises of jobs. She was fined $5,000, and the following year, in resolving another claim, the Attorney General ordered her to pay more than $15,000 to 20 aspiring models. (Walters declined to comment on anything "that happened more than 10 years ago.")

None of it matters to Philadelphia models. They are glad to have a shot with a big-name agency.

"They can broaden my avenues and possibilities," said Masha Diduk, a 17-year-old model from the Northeast, who paid the $1,775 fee to Wilhelmina upon signing her first modeling contract in January. She says she has earned half that back.

"Since I've signed with them, I've done the Rittenhouse Square show, Philadelphia University and Moore College. They are offering me an opportunity and I'm excited."

Contact fashion writer Elizabeth Wellington at ewellington@phillynews.com or 215-854-2704 and follow her on Twitter at ewellingtonphl.