Start with a salad course. Lettuces like endive and radicchio hold their own on a hot grill, caramelizing just enough to lose a little of their natural bitterness. Dress them however you'd like - a citrus-based walnut vinaigrette, as in the accompanying recipe, works nicely when enhanced with some toasted nuts and shaved Parmesan.
Some vegetables, such as leeks and potatoes, need do-ahead preparation before going onto the grill. Boil potatoes the night before, then slice and hold them in the fridge, and they can be popped on the grates 10 minutes before you're ready to eat. They'll come out creamy inside and crisp outside. Serve them with an herbaceous green goddess dressing (see recipe), but they'll go with just about anything.
Corn on the cob, too, is more about the method than the added flavors (in the recipe, a spin on Mexican crema and cotija cheese). To protect the corn from burning, remove the entire husk except for the innermost layer, which sticks to the corn by way of a little softened butter. As it grills, the butter melts into the kernels, and the leaves peel back just enough to allow a few random spots of char on the cob. It's a side dish that will go with anything from steak to seafood.
Fennel, squash, and grapes can turn into a light vegetarian main course when grilled and tossed with sweet-tart sherry vinaigrette, and served over couscous.
Add whatever you like to bulk it up and give it added protein - feta cheese, garbanzo beans, even grilled tofu. Though the grapes seem an unlikely addition, they pick up smoky flavors and add bursts of sweet juice when cooked in a hand-folded aluminum foil basket.
In fact, creative cooks are playing with all kinds of grilled fruits, which can be served in either the savory or sweet part of the meal.
No disrespect to meat, but with an arsenal of new vegetable recipes, and a little more respect for the process, I'm all about the sides.
Vegetable grilling guide
A large platter of grilled mixed vegetables is a welcome addition to any summer menu, but it will require extra attention - some vegetables will cook longer than others, so they'll need to be pulled off at different times. That's OK, though - they're just as good served cold or at room temperature.
Vegetables should be cut to expose as much surface area to the grill as possible, then brushed with olive oil and seasoned generously with salt and pepper. Feel free to add infused oils or extra seasonings like garlic or chile oils, oregano, or rosemary. Build the platter however you like - in addition to the vegetables listed, you can add lettuces like endive and radicchio, corn on the cob, or potatoes to the platter.
Grilling temperature should be medium to medium-high. Depending on how well you like your vegetables cooked, you can leave them longer on the grill or pull them when they're still crisp.
Follow these simple guidelines for best results.
Bell peppers: Core and seed, and cut into four equal-size pieces. Grill 4 to 6 minutes per side.
Fennel: Cut off the fronds and stems. Trim a thin slice from the bottom, leaving the rest of the core intact. Remove any bruised or brown outer layers. Cut fennel lengthwise into 1/4- to 1/2-inch slices through the core, so they resemble blossoms or fans. Grill about 6 minutes per side.
Leeks: Cut off the dark green tops and remove the tough outer layers, leaving only the tender light green and white insides. Cut in half lengthwise through the core, and rinse well with cold water. Boil for about 2 to 3 minutes in well-salted water, then plunge into ice water to stop the cooking (can be done a day in advance). Grill about 3 minutes per side.
Mushrooms: These need to be skewered so they don't fall through the grates. Slice portobellos into 1/2-inch-thick slices through the stem, then skewer from the bottom of the stem through the cap of the mushroom, or skewer smaller button mushrooms through the stem and cap. Grill about 4 to 5 minutes per side.
Onions: Trim both ends of the onion, then peel. Cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch slices crosswise, then thread thin skewers all the way through the onion, so they will lie flat on the grill. Grill about 6 minutes per side.
Zucchini and summer squash: Trim ends, then cut lengthwise, 1/2-inch wide. If the squash is too long, cut it in half through the middle before slicing into strips. Grill about 4 minutes per side.
Grilled Endive and Radicchio Salad
Makes 4 servings
For the walnut vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons freshly
squeezed lemon juice
Kosher salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons walnut or
olive oil
3 tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil
Ground black pepper, to
taste
For the salad:
4 heads Belgian endive, cut
lengthwise through the
core
1 large head radicchio,
bruised outer leaves
removed and quartered
through the core
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil
Kosher salt and ground
black pepper, to taste
1/3 cup chopped toasted
walnuts
2 tablespoons minced chives
Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese, for shaving
1. For the vinaigrette, pour the lemon juice into a small bowl, and whisk in salt and mustard until fully incorporated. In a slow, steady stream, whisk in the oils until the dressing is emulsified. Season to taste with pepper; set aside.
2. For the salad, preheat a gas or charcoal grill to medium heat. Lightly spray the grate with nonstick cooking spray and set over the heat. Brush the endive and radicchio on all sides with the olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Place the cut side of the endive and one of the cut sides of radicchio on the grill, cook for about 4 minutes until golden, then flip and cook 4 minutes more. Remove endive, flip radicchio to the third, uncooked side, and finish cooking, another 3 to 4 minutes, until golden and tender throughout.
3. To assemble, place one quarter radicchio and two halves endive on each of four plates. Drizzle vinaigrette over the lettuce, and sprinkle with walnuts and chives. Using a vegetable peeler, shave strips of Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top, and serve immediately.
Per serving: 344 calories, 5 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrate, 34 grams fat, no cholesterol, 44 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.
Grilled Corn on the Cob With Spicy Lime Creme Fraiche and Cotija Cheese
Makes 4 servings
For the Spicy Lime Creme Fraiche:
1/2 cup creme fraiche
Juice of 1/2 lime
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Kosher salt to taste
For the corn:
4 ears corn
4 teaspoons softened butter
Kosher salt and ground
black pepper, to taste
1/3 cup crumbled cotija
cheese
1. For the creme fraiche, in a small bowl, stir together the creme fraiche, lime juice, paprika, and cayenne until well blended. Season to taste with salt; set aside.
2. For the corn, preheat a grill to medium-high heat. To prepare the corn, discard the entire husk except for the innermost layer of leaves. Gently peel back and remove the silk. Rub 1 teaspoon of softened butter over each ear of corn, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pull the remaining husk back up over the corn to cover. Grill for about 12 minutes total, flipping and turning occasionally, until random areas of the corn are slightly charred.
3. Remove husks, and serve with the creme fraiche and cotija cheese.
Per serving: 212 calories, 5 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrate, 14 grams fat, 34 milligrams cholesterol, 167 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.
Couscous With Grilled Fennel, Summer Squash, and Grapes
Makes 5-6 main course servings or 8 as a side dish
For the vinaigrette:
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar Kosher salt, to taste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil Ground black pepper, to
taste
For the salad:
1 pound fennel (about 1-2
heads)
1 pound zucchini (about 2-3
medium size)
1 pound yellow crookneck
squash (about 1-2 large
size)
5 tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil
Kosher salt and ground
black pepper, to taste
2 cups seedless red grapes
For the couscous:
1 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 cups couscous
1. For the vinaigrette, pour the sherry vinegar into a small bowl, and whisk in a pinch of kosher salt until dissolved. Add the mustard and the honey, whisking to incorporate. In a slow, steady stream, pour in the olive oil, whisking constantly until the dressing is emulsified. Season to taste with pepper; set aside.
2. For the salad, cut fennel into 1/2-inch slices lengthwise, leaving the core intact so the slices hold together (they should look like blossoms). Trim off the ends of the zucchini and yellow squash, then cut the squash into 1/2-inch-thick lengthwise slices. Place vegetables on a baking sheet, and brush with olive oil on both sides; season generously with salt and pepper. Using a sheet of aluminum foil that has been folded in half, bunch up the sides to create a basket, and place the grapes inside.
3. Preheat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high. Lightly spray the grate with nonstick cooking spray, and set over the heat. Grill the fennel for 6 to 7 minutes on each side, until slightly tender throughout and charred on the edges. Grill the zucchini and crookneck squash for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until cooked through, with visible grill marks on the outside. Place the grapes in the foil onto the grill, stirring or tossing occasionally, until they just start to burst and are warmed through, about 5 minutes.
4. For the couscous, bring 11/2 cups water and the salt to a boil in saucepan over medium heat. Stir in couscous, remove from heat, cover, and let stand 5 minutes. Transfer couscous to a bowl; fluff with fork and cool slightly.
5. To assemble, cut grilled vegetables into bite-size pieces, mix with the grapes and any collected juices, and toss with about 3/4 of the vinaigrette. Serve over the couscous, drizzling remaining dressing over the grains. If necessary, season with a little more salt and pepper.
Per main-course serving: 515 calories, 8 grams protein, 52 grams carbohydrate, 31 grams fat, no cholesterol, 406 milligrams sodium, 6 grams dietary fiber.
Grilled Potatoes With Green Goddess Dressing
Makes 6-8 servings
For the dressing:
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons champagne or
white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons freshly
squeezed lemon juice
2 anchovies
2 green onions, coarsely
chopped
1/4 cup chopped chives
1/4 cup packed tarragon
leaves
1/2 cup loosely packed
parsley leaves
Kosher salt and ground
black pepper, to taste
For the potatoes:
3 pounds Yukon gold
potatoes (about 5 large)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and ground
black pepper, to taste
1. For the dressing, puree the mayonnaise, vinegar, lemon juice, anchovies, green onions, and herbs in a food processor fitted with a metal blade or in a blender, until it is mostly smooth and green in color with flecks of herbs throughout. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside or refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. The day before serving, place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water by 1 to 2 inches. Season the water with a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a slow boil over medium heat, then lower to a simmer and cook until potatoes can be pierced with a knife but still hold their shape, about 45 to 50 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. Remove from heat, drain, and rinse with cold water. Let cool slightly, then peel and slice potatoes into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Place on a baking sheet in one flat layer and refrigerate overnight.
3. About 30 minutes before cooking, preheat a grill until it reads about 425 on a thermometer. Spray the grate with nonstick cooking spray, and set over the heat. Meanwhile, mix the garlic with the olive oil, and let steep for at least 20 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the fridge, brush with the garlic oil, and season generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Place on the grill and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottom edges turn golden and crisp. Flip carefully and cook 3 to 4 more minutes.
4. Serve immediately with the dressing on the side for dipping.
Per serving: 347 calories, 2 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrate, 29 grams fat, 21 milligrams cholesterol, 193 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.
