Veggies on the grill: Side status no longer

July 15, 2010|By Amanda Gold, SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
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One needn't subscribe to a vegetarian diet to find pleasure in lightly smoky, caramelized vegetables prepared on the grill. Numerous varieties - squash, mushrooms, onions, bell peppers, eggplant, and fennel, to name a few - take extraordinarily well to this method of cooking.

Vegetables are largely ignored once they hit the grates, when in fact they require, and sometimes deserve, the most attention. With the right treatment, they can easily be the star of the meal.

And, because their time on the grill is short - most need just about 10 minutes' cooking time - even a last-minute barbecue can come together quickly.

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Start with a salad course. Lettuces like endive and radicchio hold their own on a hot grill, caramelizing just enough to lose a little of their natural bitterness. Dress them however you'd like - a citrus-based walnut vinaigrette, as in the accompanying recipe, works nicely when enhanced with some toasted nuts and shaved Parmesan.

Some vegetables, such as leeks and potatoes, need do-ahead preparation before going onto the grill. Boil potatoes the night before, then slice and hold them in the fridge, and they can be popped on the grates 10 minutes before you're ready to eat. They'll come out creamy inside and crisp outside. Serve them with an herbaceous green goddess dressing (see recipe), but they'll go with just about anything.

Corn on the cob, too, is more about the method than the added flavors (in the recipe, a spin on Mexican crema and cotija cheese). To protect the corn from burning, remove the entire husk except for the innermost layer, which sticks to the corn by way of a little softened butter. As it grills, the butter melts into the kernels, and the leaves peel back just enough to allow a few random spots of char on the cob. It's a side dish that will go with anything from steak to seafood.

Fennel, squash, and grapes can turn into a light vegetarian main course when grilled and tossed with sweet-tart sherry vinaigrette, and served over couscous.

Add whatever you like to bulk it up and give it added protein - feta cheese, garbanzo beans, even grilled tofu. Though the grapes seem an unlikely addition, they pick up smoky flavors and add bursts of sweet juice when cooked in a hand-folded aluminum foil basket.

In fact, creative cooks are playing with all kinds of grilled fruits, which can be served in either the savory or sweet part of the meal.

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