The fish taco migrates east

   tender stems, chopped

   (about 3/4 cup) plus more

   for garnish

1/2 small red onion, chopped

   (about 1/2 cup)

1 cup mayonnaise

Juice of 2 limes

Kosher salt and black

   pepper to taste

For the batter:

2 cups all-purpose flour

16 ounces Tecate or other

   similar ice-cold beer

1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

6 ice cubes

For assembly:

1 quart corn or canola oil,

   as needed

32 thin, fresh corn tortillas

   (or 16 thicker, handmade

   ones)

3/4 to 1 cup prepared roasted

   tomato salsa (see note)

Lime wedges

1. Portion fish into 16 pieces about 2 ounces each, cutting them into long rectangles that fit across the width of the tortilla. Cover fish and refrigerate until ready to cook.

2. Combine cabbage, cilantro, and onion into a salad; refrigerate until ready to assemble. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise with enough lime juice to lighten it, then season with salt and pepper to taste. The lime mayonnaise can be made ahead.

3. For the batter, combine flour, beer, egg yolk, cayenne, and ice cubes in a large bowl. Use a fork to mix gently until just combined; some lumps and ice pieces will remain. The mixture should resemble a thin pancake batter.

4. To assemble, pour 3 inches of oil into a heavy pan (cast-iron if available), and heat to 350 degrees. Pat fish dry and season with salt and pepper. Working in batches, if necessary, use tongs to drag each piece of fish through the batter, then place it in the hot oil; suspend each piece in the oil for about 3 seconds before releasing it. Cook, turning as needed, until the fish turns golden brown and floats. Drain on paper towels.

5. Warm the tortillas. Top tortillas (use two thin ones or one thick one for each taco) with some of the cabbage mixture, a drizzle of lime mayo, small spoonful of salsa, and a squeeze of lime juice; finish with a piece of fish. Serve immediately.

Note: You can puree 1/4 cup chipotle chile en adobo with 1/2 cup of chopped plum tomatoes in place of the roasted tomato salsa. If needed, add a little water to adjust consistency. If puree is too spicy, adjust by blending in more plum tomatoes.

Per two-taco serving: 536 calories, 28 grams protein, 49 grams carbohydrate, 26 grams fat, 110 milligrams cholesterol, 465 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber.