Explore Ethiopia for its ancient culture

August 18, 2010|By MALCOLM CAIN JR., For the Daily News
  • Malcolm Cain stands in front of the Church of St. George, an underground church carved out of rock in Lalibela.

Ethiopia is the cradle of civilization, the place where some believe the biblical Ark of the Covenant is held. Its historical landmarks and rich culture tell the story of a people who have survived more than a thousand years of outsiders' attempts to exert influence.

Ethiopia also is home to more than 80 ethnic groups, a country with a growing economy and a modern infrastructure.

So how is this land seen through a modern American traveler's eyes? Certainly a visitor must be open-minded to have a meaningful experience here.

I went to Ethiopia in May for a month as a volunteer with Projects Abroad for my senior class project at the Haverford School. I worked as a journalist in the capital city of Addis Ababa, writing articles about Ethiopian culture for a local newspaper.

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I tried to absorb as much of the culture as I could, touring Addis Ababa as well as many historic small towns such as Lalibela, named after the king who built the city about 1,000 years ago. It's one of the holiest cities for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians.

The scenery took me by surprise - and not just for its beauty.

Evidence of "Obamamania" was everywhere, in tourist shops selling T-shirts with President Obama's image on them, and among the town's youth, who eagerly inquired, "Are you American?" then responded, "Yes we can!"

Along with the obvious modern influences, the rich history of the community was vividly present. There were more than 13 churches in Lalibela, monolithic structures cut out of rock. These are active houses of worship, not just historic monuments, and the air of devotion when you walk inside is palpable. Throughout Ethiopia, people hold tradition and faith close. Maybe that is one reason for the country's resilience.

There is much to see in Addis Ababa.

The Ethiopian National Museum has the 3.5 million-year-old skeleton of Lucy, the oldest hominid ever found. Though her bones are kept out of view for preservation, there are replicas on display. The museum has many artifacts of Ethiopian history dating from ancient times to today.

Be sure to stop by Addis Ababa University library, once the palace of Emperor Haile Selassie. Some of the family rooms are on display there.

A visitor's open-mindedness might be tested at mealtimes in Ethiopia, since the custom here is to eat with your fingers. Family and friends gather around a big table of assorted dishes, many of them stews spiced with a pepper seasoning called berbere, on a pancake type bread called injera.

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