'Biodynamic" has become one of the great watchwords in naturalistic winemaking - especially in France, where this holistic precursor to organic agriculture is well-ensconced. Inspired by early 20th century Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner, biodynamic farming often raises skeptical eyebrows with its attention to the zodiac and lunar cycles, draft horses (instead of tractors), and cow horns buried with manure to activate the soil. But it's hard to argue with the success of great French winemakers like Nicholas Joly, Domaine Leroy, and Chapoutier's Hermitage.
From the ranks of lesser-known vintners, one can add as further evidence this impressive bottle of Chateau Maris La Touge syrah from Englishman Robert Eden's biodynamic winery in the La Livinière cru of Languedoc's Minervois. Discounted by $12 in Pennsylvania, it offers more complexity and fruit than a comparably priced Rhône, with lush black berries, grinds of cracked pepper, and a cocoa finish woven into the herby "garrigue" of southern France.