Touched by Nucky

A tour of the Prohibition-era kingpin's Atlantic City haunts - in reality, and in HBO's imagination.

October 12, 2010|By Amy S. Rosenberg, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • The long Ritz corridor is often seen on TV, but in reality there's a Burger King there - not the French dress shop of "Boardwalk Empire."
  • The long Ritz corridor is often seen on TV, but in reality there's a Burger King there - not the French dress shop of "Boardwalk Empire."
  • Enoch L. "Nucky" Johnson's mausoleum in Egg Harbor Township. Both his wives are alongside.
  • Hammonton takes a bow on the show - a nod to resident Nelson Johnson, author of the nonfiction book that inspired it. HBO makes the town the scene of some gory roadside murders.
  • Ventnor attorney Frank J. Ferry displays an album of photos and notes scribbled by Nucky Johnson, an acquaintance of his. ("Boardwalk Empire" gives Nucky the last name Thompson.)
  • The faux Boardwalk constructed in Brooklyn for the HBO series. Many of the 1920s landmarks in Atlantic City have been torn down.
  • Brian Smith , manager of what are now the Ritz condos, shows a view from the ninth floor, Nucky's home.
  • Nucky and Flossie , the showgirl he married the day before he was jailed for tax evasion.
  • Incubator Baby Carol-Anne Heinisch with the cap she wore home, and a photo from that time.
  • The real Nucky , top, in 1941. And TV's Nucky, Steve Buscemi.

ATLANTIC CITY - A few weeks ago, as Boardwalk Empire anticipation reached a froth worthy of the surf that washes up whiskey bottles around Steve Buscemi's feet, an idea was kicked around town.

"We'll have a Nucky tour," said Jeff Vasser, head of the Atlantic City Convention and Visitors Authority. He was referring to former Atlantic County treasurer Enoch L. "Nucky" Johnson, renamed Thompson by HBO, who ruled Prohibition A.C. with a red carnation and a fist full of bills.

A little tricky, perhaps, in a place where so many 1920s landmarks have been torn down and where Nucky Johnson himself - imprisoned for tax evasion, known for a compassionate brand of corruption and gangster hospitality - is a beloved but dubious figure.

Story continues below.

So far, and it's early, no official Nucky tour has emerged. To help matters along, we offer our own best Nucky Tour, a fanciful trip through the world of Boardwalk Empire as it exists - or no longer exists, or, perhaps, never existed - in current-day Atlantic City.

1. Incubator Babies walk among us. One of the signature pieces of the faux Boardwalk set HBO constructed in Brooklyn is the Incubator Baby store. Nucky Thompson is drawn there in melancholy reverie, a place where for 25 cents you can see actual premature babies in actual, and recently invented, incubators.

Sounds crazy, no?

Well, the beauty of Atlantic City - then and now - is how the weird is intricately woven into the normal. There really were incubator babies. If you start your in-search-of-Nucky-tour in Ventnor, at the law offices of Frank J. Ferry on Atlantic Avenue, you can find one in pink-clad secretary Carol-Anne Heinisch, 68.

She was an incubator baby on the Boardwalk (in the summer of 1942). A preemie, she spent two months inside the storefront across from the Million Dollar Pier (now Caesars) set up by the inventor of the incubators, in part to raise money, in part to show off his invention, and in part to expose the fragile newborns to the healing effects of the salt air. (They kept the windows open.) "It didn't bother me," says Heinisch. "What did I know?"

2. Notes from Nucky. Heinisch's boss, Ferry, almost 80, was an acquaintance of Nucky's and did legal work for him. He's written a biography of Johnson and has an album full of Johnson's scribbled notes. While hard to read, they paint a picture of the real Johnson's mind at work, always dashing off instructions. ("Important that arrangements made for firemen to be relieved on election day . . .")

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