Night Market vendors in South Philadelphia satisfy a hunger for community

October 14, 2010|By Rick Nichols, Inquirer Columnist
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  • The scene at Passyunk and Tasker last Thursday when Night Market, an event organized by the Food Trust, took over, attracting thousands.
  • The scene at Passyunk and Tasker last Thursday when Night Market, an event organized by the Food Trust, took over, attracting thousands. (Tony Fitts )
  • East Passyunk's upstart Green Aisle Grocery sold out a crate of apples at Night Market.

It was called Night Market (because, yes, it was a street market held at night) and by 7:32 last Thursday evening - the light fading, the fountain at East Passyunk and Tasker sparkling - it was clear the mere words alone had held out the promise of magic.

Thousands turned out, milling in the streets, low-key and mellow, though not always well fed: The line for tacos al pastor stretched 65 deep at the Los Taquitos de Puebla's curbside tent. Outside the window at Honest Tom's truck, 44 more souls waited - and waited. Ballpark lines!

Tom Culton of Culton Organics, the celebrity farmer from Lancaster County, couldn't make it. But E'Punk's upstart Green Aisle Grocery sold out a crate of apples.

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And so it went, up and down these reanimating blocks in South Philly - the music of a laid-back band in the air; the demand outstripping supply at the 17 stands; the dinner bell sounded by the Food Trust, heeded far beyond the startled organizers' expectations.

"If there's one thing we learned," said the Trust's April White, "it's this: More vendors!"

But another lesson seemed just as obvious: There are few communal draws - the Phillies, of course, being one - that are now as powerful in this city as food; from roving cupcake trucks to pop-up restaurants (that blossom for three-night stands), from idealistic urban farms to, leading the pack, the outdoor farm markets that have become a don't-miss weekly ritual for twenty- and thirty-somethings.

In an untouchable virtual world, sidewalk cafes and food trucks and "night markets" (another one is planned for spring) have emerged as concrete touchstones - the social network made flesh and blood and turnip.

And that goes for the butchers and bakers, too: "It's not work . . .," Jess Ford, a baker at the Madison, Wis., farmers market was quoted as saying recently, "it's my social life."

With the family dinner nearly extinct or outgrown; with younger settlers moving into - and redefining - Fishtown and Northern Liberties and South Philadelphia; with old traditions going the way of pepper pot soup, there's an appetite growing for a new reality, a replacement meal, you might say.

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