Michael Klein: Couple fulfill a dream, opening Thai restaurant in Cherry Hill

November 25, 2010|By Michael Klein, Inquirer Columnist
  • Suad Hadzovic (left) with wife and partner Lalitta Ardhan and her parents, Joe and Bowe Ardhan. They have opened Umpasri in Cherry Hill.

Since meeting in the Bronx as teenagers, Suad Hadzovic and Lalitta Ardhan have dreamed of opening their own restaurant.

Money was an object. So was deciding on the concept. He is from Kosovo and her family is from Thailand. After years of saving - and marriage, three children, and a relocation to Pleasantville, N.J. - they have taken the plunge in a Cherry Hill strip center with Umpasri.

Thai cuisine won. Ardhan's father, Joe, a 30-year kitchen veteran, and his wife, Bowe, are cooking.

Umpasri (2442 Route 38, Cherry Hill, 856-482-0377) joins a mini-United Nations of eateries in Plaza 38, including Pho So 1, Perlin's, Cindy's Chinese, and Pizza 38. The name ("ahm-POSS-ee"; the r is silent) is after Lalitta Ardham's grandmother.

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The 30-seat BYOB's cheery atmosphere includes wall decorations from Thailand. Menu hits the basics (rice, noodles, curries, soups, and salads). Joe Ardhan is aiming at authenticity with his pad Thai, which includes a dried-shrimp garnish. Prices are low: No dish exceeds $8 and weekday lunch specials are priced at $6.95. It's open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays and noon to 10 p.m. Saturdays. (Note: closed Thanksgiving Day.)

 

What's new

The beer bar Sticks & Stones (1909 E. Passyunk Ave.) is open after about 21/2 years of on-and-off construction, plumbing matters, and what owner Nick Miglino describes as family issues that had to come first. The storefront is dominated by a gray limestone bar run by Eric "Elvis" Walsh. Behind the bar is a giant, whimsical photo from 1933 that shows Miglino's father as an 18-year-old posing with friends and a horse at 15th Street and Castle Avenue in South Philadelphia. There are a dozen beers on tap, and 50 or so by the bottle. Moderate-priced food is all over the map: Asian, Latin, vegetarian - "nothing sophisticated," says Miglino, who ran Felicia's at 11th and Ellsworth Streets until he sold the place a few years ago.

Pizzicato, which started in Old City and Marlton, opens a third location, next to Moorestown Mall, this week. Vince Tancredi, a 13-year veteran of the trattoria, will be executive chef. It's BYOB and larger than its siblings (400 Route 38; 856-778-3600).

Sae An, chef-partner in Cork in Westmont, is taking a leave of absence to travel for about six months, to his native South Korea and also Japan, Thailand, and Vietnam. (Going-away party will be Saturday night.) On his way back, he plans to hit the Pacific, including a stay in Hawaii with Sam Choy, his partner Kevin Meeker's pal. Filling in at Cork is David Webb, a Vermonter who previously worked at Braddock's in Medford but most recently was at Chelsea Prime and the Hungry H in Lambertville, N.J.

 


Contact columnist Michael Klein at mklein@phillynews.com. Enjoy dining? Follow his blog at http://go.philly.com/insider and on Twitter @phillyinsider.

 

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