This end of the evening happy hour had its genesis in a craving of Safran's - a place at the end of the dinner shift that was more than a bar, but had an irresistible burger and good beverage options. So, Safran has been surprised that the Late Night Menu has become popular with the general public as well.
It's perfect for after-theater (who wants to race through a good meal to get to the show?) or to punctuate a long evening of holiday shopping.
So, what about this craveable burger? The Late Night options change every couple of weeks, but be assured that whatever falls between the slices of a brioche bun will quench a craving.
Most recently I succumbed to a perfectly mid-rare beef mound topped with a balsamic onion tomato jam, a thin and crispy strip of sautéed speck (think over-the-top bacon) and a tangy caciocavallo cheese. Not to mention the house-made mustard with a hit of Portuguese beer that was so good I wanted to pack my side up to take home.
There's also a selection from the pasta menu. I particularly liked the Strozzapreti, a thick tubular pasta, tossed with a hearty variety of mushroom called hen of the woods (also known as maitake). The mushrooms took on a smoky, meaty characteristic in the wood-fired oven.
Here's where Chef Marcie Turney comes into her own, by adding brightness to the dish with wild arugula and preserved-lemon walnut pesto. A tiny dollop of a rich, creamy, runny ricotta added the third dimension. OK, the wild arugula does sound pretentious - as if there is caged arugula screaming in agony from the dirt - but supposedly this is a relative of the cultivated kind and has a stronger, more complex flavor.
