Tyson Bees is a mobile mash-up worth waiting in line for

January 20, 2011|By LARI ROBLING, For the Daily News
  • Owner Tyson Wong Ophaso displays a steamed pork bun as he stands in front of his truck.

It started in Los Angeles and tweeted itself into a late-night sport. How quickly can you find the Korean-Mexican taco truck, and how long are you willing to wait in the name of an obsession? (Reportedly more than two hours on a weekend.)

So, when it's a tweet phenomenon in L.A. and even New Yorkers break their stride for it, no doubt it will show up in Philly.

Ladder 15 and Meritage introduced Korean-Mexican fusion to our dining scene. Still, the real-deal mash-up here is mobile - Tyson Bees, a truck traveling to various neighborhoods dispensing kimchi-laced tacos to the masses, manned by Tyson Wong Ophaso, whose culinary influences are diverse enough to give Google Maps a challenge.

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Born in Laos, his family left in 1975 after the communist takeover and moved to Thailand. Later came a move to France and, eventually, he landed in San Francisco as a chef who frequented taco trucks after his shift.

Ophaso came to Philly to open Chew Man Chu, which had a very brief tenure at the Symphony House. Fortunately, he likes us and decided to stay put and give us the gift of our own Korean Taco truck, even when the licensing process caused enough delays to seem like an episode on Food Network's "The Great Food Truck Race."

Hands down the favorite dish with tasters was the Steamed Pork Bun ($3), a recipe Ophaso brings from his Chew Man Chu days.

A slice of well-prepared pork belly scented with Chinese five-spice powder stood proudly on a Peking-duck bun slathered in hoisin sauce. Some pickled jalapeƱo dotted the landscape, creating balance between the sweet and fatty.

Seriously, order two as you'll want one in reserve because someone is bound to poach a taste when they see it.

There are three taco fusions well-priced at $3 each or $8 for three. All the tacos are double-wrapped in a soft corn tortilla.

My tasters and I ranked the Korean BBQ Short Rib Tacos as our favorite. Sliced cabbage and radishes offered a traditional Mexican textural contrast to the slightly sweet pork. A dollop of Ophaso's French-inspired aioli sauce added a creamy note as well.

The Thai Basil Chicken Taco definitely showed more Thai influence than Mexican, not necessarily a bad thing, but I was looking for more fusion. It was pretty much straight-up Vietnamese despite the radish, cabbage and lime.

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