Philadelphia's Under the Oak Cafe is expanding

January 20, 2011|By Dianna Marder, Inquirer Staff Writer
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  • At Under the Oak Cafe, diners, above, are seated for the weekly chef's table dinner. The BYOB meal consists of eight courses. At top left is a seared prawn salad with duck prosciutto and foie gras vinaigrette.
  • At Under the Oak Cafe, diners, above, are seated for the weekly chef's table dinner. The BYOB meal consists of eight courses. At top left is a seared prawn salad with duck prosciutto and foie gras vinaigrette.
  • Chef David Salvatore prepares dinner at Under the Oak Cafe. A chef's table dinner for 12 has been added on Friday nights.
  • Kelly and Robert Tyree mingle with guests at their expanded Under the Oak Cafe.
  •    LAURENCE KESTERSON / Staff Photographer

 

After three years, a crippling recession, and an armed robbery, Under the Oak Cafe in East Oak Lane is more than enduring - it is expanding, with Saturday morning cooking classes, Friday night gourmet dinners, and a newly hired, French-trained chef.

The cafe, opened in 2008 by the husband-and-wife team of Robert and Kelly McShain Tyree, plus Kelly's brother, Devitt McShain, sits on an isolated street with almost no foot traffic.

"It was definitely a risk. People told us we were crazy to open here," says Kelly Tyree, who was raised in East Oak Lane and lives there still. "I later found out people were making bets as to how long we would last."

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Two months after opening, she was at the register when she suddenly felt the chill of a gun at the side of her head. The intruder hog-tied her and her husband in the basement and, she says, would likely have shot them both if Robert Tyree hadn't "talked him down."

Then the recession hit - and it hit hard. Business slowed as neighbors lost their jobs.

"We talked about whether to cut our hours," Kelly Tyree said, "and we seriously discussed shutting down."

They decided to cut back on the cafe's hours, opening now for breakfast and lunch on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, and for brunch on Sunday.

And at the same time, they opted to expand into an adjoining space in order to offer Saturday morning cooking classes and an exclusive chef's table dinner for a dozen people every Friday night.

Devitt McShain did the heavy work, breaking through a wall to connect the cafe with a space that housed a pharmacy in 1883 and a butcher shop in the 1950s. The original 12-foot butcher block and two walk-in freezers remained in place, along with a sign that reads, "For Those Who Want The Best." Why take that down?

Chef David Salvatore came on board to lead hands-on cooking classes on Saturdays and exclusive farm-to-table dinners.

Salvatore said he hoped to replicate the success of Talula's Table in Kennett Square, which offers an eight-course BYOB dinner for just one table of eight to twelve people.

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