American wine scene expanding to the East Coast

January 20, 2011|By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic
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  • This jalapeño wine won a silver medal for Boyd's Cardinal Hollow Winery of North Wales, Montgomery County.
  • Award-winning wines are displayed in the tasting room of Plagido's Winery in Hammonton, N.J. Plagido's recently won prizes for its cranberry and blueberry wines.

CLOVERDALE, Calif. - The hottest emerging wine region in the country was getting a lot of buzz at the largest American wine competition here last month: Paso Robles.

The massive wine region between San Francisco and Los Angeles, known for its lusty Rhône-style reds and zinfandel, recently took half the top awards at the 2011 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition: a Thacher 2008 Triumvirate zin and a 2008 Lock Vineyard cabernet from Ecluse shared best red. A 2009 late harvest sauvignon blanc from Alapay took best sweet.

There were also kudos for bottles from up-and-coming regions such as Washington and New Mexico.

Under the radar, perhaps, but of equal interest to me, one of the competition's few East Coast judges, were surprising successes from the cranberry bogs of South Jersey, the slate-rich slopes of the Pennsylvania Alleghenies, and the searing-hot jalapeño pots of North Wales.

OK, before we continue: Yes, there is an actual winery in the suburban Montgomery County borough of North Wales, called Boyd's Cardinal Hollow; and there is such a thing as jalapeño wine, and it's not nearly so horrible as it sounds - owner Christopher Boyd's spicy effort took a silver medal in the "other" category, alongside other such eccentrics as "Skookumchuck," "Red Chocolate," and a class-winning green-chile wine from New Mexico.

True, the majority of the 5,050 wines here still came from the more familiar vineyards of California, and a fair portion were safe-bet chardonnay (600-plus). But if there's anything to be learned when the largest competition of American wines ever is assembled from 23 states to be blind-tasted by 60 professional judges, it is that the nation's wine scene, fueled by career-changers and a nation obsessed with all things locavore, is growing in every corner of the country, and in unexpected ways.

Pennsylvania has doubled its number of wineries to nearly 150 in just the last five years, according to Mark Chien, a viticulture educator for Pennsylvania State University's Cooperative Extension. In New Jersey, that number has grown from 12 to at least 40 during the last decade.

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