Mirror, Mirror: Cascade of color

Paul Simon may have been the marquee act of Saturday's Academy of Music Concert and Ball. But the brand-spanking-new designer gowns were the evening's twinkling stars.

For two years we've watched the highest of society's fashionistas shop their closets for the Academy Ball, saying the economy had forced even them to penny-pinch. But it seems they've had enough.

Instead of wearing recycled gowns in dark shades, ball-goers this year donned frocks that were bright and bold, some glamorous enough for a Hollywood red carpet.

The hottest hue was red, and women walked into pre-party receptions at Tiffany & Co. and the Academy Ballroom, removing furs and revealing one-shouldered and floral-appliqued Badgley Mischkas, Versaces, Valentinos, and Monique Lhuilliers in the fiery shade. Some of the crimson gowns, including that of public relations executive Nicole Cashman (courtesy of Elkins Park couturier Irina Segal), featured asymmetrical necklines similar to the Alexander McQueen dress Michelle Obama wore recently to a state dinner for China's president.

Philadelphia's elite aren't the only ones spending more on formal wear these days. In fact, says Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing in Lancaster, average spending on women's formal wear jumped 37 percent, from $800 in 2009 to $1,100 by December, according to a poll of 1,200 luxury consumers. Couture gowns, such as the many worn at the Academy Ball, range in price from $3,000 to $10,000.

"After a couple of years of doing without, people are starting to indulge selectively," said Danziger.

But, she said, that does not mean the days of conspicuous consumption are back for everyday Janes.

"There isn't any proof yet that the story is the same lower down on the food chain."

What is true is that color is everywhere. It certainly was on Saturday night: emerald green Teri Jons, black BCBGs, magenta Oscar de la Rentas, and several vibrant pink frocks. The Pantone Color Institute may call its color of the year honeysuckle, but to Leslie Miller, "It's watermelon!"

Miller, whose husband, Richard Worley, is the Philadelphia Orchestra's board chairman, twirled around and lifted one of the panels on her ankle-length dress to show off the bold orange lining.

"I like to call it my Carmen Miranda dress," she said, beaming.